When Larry and I became engaged, I had one of the most brilliant gift ideas I’ve ever had for the guy who is impossible to buy for. Larry loves maps, especially old maps. Larry loves Slovenija. So I did a lot of research and found an antique map dealer in Germany who had a circa 1710 map of what is now Slovenija (then known as Carniola, a part of the Austro-Hungarian empire). It was so much fun torturing him with the surprise for weeks before it was ready (it had to be shipped, then I had to get it framed by a special conservation framer). Larry can’t take surprises, he’s like a 5-year-old. I endured a lot of tickle torture but still refused to reveal my hand. Finally, it arrived and one night after work I handed him a nondescript, flat, cardboard box. He immediately assumed I had gotten a framed print of the Great Salt Lake (another great love in his life) and was confused when he opened it – until he saw the inset of the skyline of Ljubljana labeled “Laybach” (the ancient name for Ljubljana). All of the churches in that skyline still exist in modern Ljubljana, so it was easily recognizable to him.
I tell you all this to explain why we ended up at this spot below. In the another inset of the map, there was a drawing of Lake Cerknica, otherwise known as The Disappearing Lake. Lake Cerknica is a natural phenomenon in which the rains and spring runoff fill it for part of the year, and for the rest of the year, it sits empty. When it is full, it is the largest lake in Slovenija. The lake is connected to a subterranean labyrinth that spews out or swallows up water, and is directly connected to the water table in the area. The ancient Romans first noticed it and before scientific study could explain this phenomenon in the 18th century, the locals were fascinated with it. Which is how it ended up on Larry’s map. We vowed to visit The Disappearing Lake one day.
On our way out of Slovenija, as we headed for the Italian border, we took a little detour. Yep, Lake Cerknica. This is the time of the year when it is mostly empty, but you can easily see where the water line ends, and it is massive! It’s hard to believe all that water appears and disappears every year. Next time we hope to visit during a time when the lake is filled.
Approaching the town of CerknicaThe area is surrounded by beautiful farmlandsThe lake! Or - what is the lake when it's full.What's left of the lakeA few abandoned rowboatsStanding in the middle of the lakeLooking out across the lakeOne of the many bird inhabitants soaring over his kingdomAlong the road going through Lake Cerknica
We spent one of our last nights in Ljubljana with the Majc’s eating, playing cards, and catching up with newly returned missionary Davor. We had a great time and will miss them, but Ivan and Rosana have promised to come visit us in New York next spring. Until then!
Davor and his younger brother SamuelIvan and RebekaPlaying hearts after dinnerHorsing around before bedtimeGroup portrait!
While Larry and I had originally planned on heading straight to Italy after finishing our time at Piran, we quickly changed our minds when we realized that Davor Majc, the eldest son of the Majc family whom Larry baptized while on his mission, would be returning from his own mission in Barcelona this week. When Larry and I last came to Ljubljana 2 years ago, by good fortune and chance we showed up on the day he was announcing his mission call in church. We couldn’t resist being here for his triumphant return. Not to mention we were not at all averse to seeing our church friends again and spending more time with them.
Being back in Ljubljana gave us a chance to return to some of our favorite restaurants and spots, to visit the Mlekomat again for some fresh milk, for Larry and Maja H to have an encore ping pong match, and to explore some places that we didn’t make time for earlier. First up was another visit to the Serbian restaurant we loved so much. This time we were able to share it with a new friend we met at church, Aaron Orullian, who was visiting from California. Though it was a bit chilly we still sat outside on the beautiful patio and the food was just as good this time. Yummy! Unfortunately we had to say goodbye to Maja S on that same night because she was leaving for a two-week vacation in the Dominican Republic. Maja, we missed you this week! 🙁
Encore ping pong was followed by encore palačinke, of course! Aaron was brave enough to order a “pizza palačinke” which turned out to be what he described as “salsa with ham, covered in paprika”. Hmmm. (A funny side note: while on her vacation in the Dominican Republic, Maja S ran into two other Slovenes at her hotel – who owned the palačinke restaurant we’ve been so frequently visiting. Small world!)
Palačinke! (or . . . crepes)Palačinke aftermathMy charming husband. He likes to go through the fast food drive through this way.
We made plans for a day trip with Aaron and Maja K to drive over Vršič, a pass high in the Julian Alps in the northwest corner of Slovenija, very near both the Italian and Austrian borders. We started the morning with a quick trip across the border to Villach, Austria so Aaron could cross another country off his list. We stopped at a mall where we grabbed some breakfast food from the local Target-like chain. I ran into a life-sized purple cow inserted as a marketing prop for Milka, which was my favorite brand of chocolate on my first fateful trip to Europe with Larry and Dana. (Milka is now owned by Kraft, by the way.) I had to have Larry snap a pic with his iPhone so we could send it to Dana later. Moo!
Pretty church in Villach, AustriaMoo!
Crossing Austria off our list, we continued on our journey. We began the ascent up to Vršič and before we got very far, we ran into road construction. As in, the road was dug up into a big pile of boulders and rubble. I thought our day trip was going to be cut very short, until the construction crew started clearing a path for us with their backhoe! They then backed out of the way so we could pass, speaking to us in French the entire time. We realized that because our car has French plates, they assumed we were French. So we simply said “Merci!” and went on our way – as we drove over a very large boulder that Mr. Backhoe had missed. It didn’t sound like it was very healthy for poor Pierre’s underside, but he seems to have come through for us yet again. No major damage.
Unfortunately the day was a bit hazy so when we got close to the top, we couldn’t see very far (on a clear day you could see all the way to Austria and Italy), but it was still a beautiful drive.
On our way to Vršič pass - traditional hay drying racksOn the way to VršičWe stopped at a lake and fed our breakfast leftovers to its residentsAFLAC!Beautiful alpine peaksAt the top!It was a bit windy at the topHanging out at the top of the passAbandoned housePretty autumn mountainsideIsolated cottage nestled in the mountainsThe turquoise waters of the Soča River, SlovenijaWe are the dots on the bridge!
On our way down from the pass we stopped at Kobarid, where 7,760 Italian World War I soldiers are laid to rest. 2,748 of those are unknown. Kobarid was along one of the bloodiest fronts of World War I; half of Italy’s 600,000 casualties were lost along this front. It’s also the location of the famous Battle of Caporetto, the aftermath of which is immortalized in Hemingway’s A Farewell to Arms.
The ossuary is basically a small chapel set upon a large octagonal marble base of three levels. The remains of the soldiers are interred in the 2 bottom levels, a marble slab inscribed where each soldier lies, with his name, age, rank, and medals. Very sad. This area of Slovenija is full of military cemeteries and monuments as it saw a lot of bloodshed during both World War I and World War II. In fact the road that we took over the pass was built by Russian prisoners of war during World War I.
The Italian WWI ossuary, near KobaridThe Italian World War I ossuary, Kobarid, SlovenijaHonoring the fallenLooking down on KobaridAbandoned stone hut
We continued on from Kobarid to our next stop at Most na Soči. This is the spot where the turquoise waters of the Soča River pool into a small lake. I was not prepared for what we saw. Imagine the brightest opaque turquoise water you have ever seen, pooled in a small lake next to a small village. It looks like they’ve filled the lake with artificial coloring. I could not believe my eyes! Judge for yourself in the pictures below and keep in mind – these have not been altered in any way!!!!
Most na Soči, Slovenija. This is the actual color - this image has not been altered!Rowboats at Most na SočiHouses along the lake
From Most na Soči, we continued along a very narrow, windy, steep mountain pass that would carry us over to Lake Bohinj. It’s a good thing none of us get car sick. Aaron’s comment from the back seat likened the drive to Disneyland rides such as the Matterhorn or even Space Mountain, once it started getting dark. We stopped for some last photo ops at Bohinj and then continued on to meet Maja H for an amazing dinner of traditional Slovene food at a small gostilna that she recently found out in the middle of nowhere, not far from the Ljubljana airport. We had to roll ourselves home after all that heavy Slovene food!
Cutting through the alps toward BohinjOn Lake BohinjLake Bohinj and the church beyondGetting some shots before darkLooking across Lake BohinjNight descends
One of my favorite parts of our honeymoon trip to Slovenija was our trip to Lipica to see the world-famous white Lipizzaner stallions. We attended a show of their incredible discipline, strength, and training and I fell in love. They are such beautiful creatures, and what they can do does not seem even possible! We were really upset our video camera wasn’t working that day, which gave us a perfect excuse to go back and get some footage. We got there just in time to attend one of the thrice-weekly shows and I fell in love all over again. When they enter the ring they are so regal and beautiful you cannot help but be affected. I’ll let the video montage I made from clips Larry shot speak for themselves. Pay special attention to their footwork. Truly they are the dancing horses. Also pay special attention to the stallions towards the end who have their tails tied up and have two handlers walking with them. If you listen closely you can hear them click their back heels together when they jump in the air. Unbelievable!
Just so you have an appreciation of the height those stallions jump, I’ve captured a frame and am inserting it below. Wow!!!!
Look at that height!
After the show we went on a tour of the stables where we were able to learn more about the history, breeding, and training of this famous breed. The first stud farm was established at Lipica by the Habsburgs in 1580 and horses have been bred there ever since. Lipica has about 400 horses at any given time. If you are an equestrian you may stay in the hotel next door and take them out for a ride or take riding lessons.
Hey buddy, can you spring me from this joint?Little babies and their moms. They are born brown or black and don't become fully white until 6 to 8 years of age.Handsome boy getting some exercise
While on our way out of town, we stopped to visit with some of the mares who spend their days in the pasture grazing. We fed them some of the grass outside of the fence line that they couldn’t reach and made friends. What beauties.
Larry and I took a trip around the tip of the Adriatic peninsula to visit Izola. Izola very similar to Piran, just slightly more populated and with a lot of commercial fisherman. As such the harbor is full of fishing vessels. Larry fondly remembers a trip to Izola while on his mission, when he jumped out of the bus and raced the other missionaries for a view of the Adriatic. Much like Piran, it’s also a beautiful, ancient, highly photogenic town. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.
Izola from a distanceTown of IzolaThe imaginative names of these old commercial fishing boats: Fish I and Fish IIA couple of guys going out for some late afternoon fishingLarry and I loved this: the wives on one bench, the husbands on the other, sitting along the water shooting the breezeAlong the shorelineSome of the colorful homes in the townFuzzy little kitty jealously guarding her domain in the warm afternoon breezeTown elder enjoying the last sunshine for the dayWalking through the townPretty sunset across the harbor
