Salt, the Old Fashioned Way: Soline, Near Portoroz, Slovenija

Just a short drive from Piran is an area where they have been harvesting salt from the sea for hundreds of years. Called simply Soline, which literally means ‘salt fields’, they are now no longer used as much as they once were, which leaves them with a bit of a haunted, deserted air. To be clear, they do still harvest salt at Soline using the same techniques that were used in the 14th century. And the salt harvested from Soline is highly prized by many of Europe’s top chefs, including Alain Ducasse. The salt harvested is put into simple small canvas bags and sold at the Piranske Soline shops in Piran and Old Town Ljubljana. Of course I had to have some for my collection, so we will be coming home with some of that prized salt ourselves.

The three Majas were kind enough to drive out from Ljubljana to visit us, so we made the trip to Soline together. Everyone brought their cameras (except me *sob* (see post on Barcelona vermin)). We had a great time exploring and taking photos. The sun cooperated and gave us some beautiful light and a stunning sunset. I can’t wait to get some of these photos home and frame them!

Walking out to the salt fields
Walking out to the salt fields
Birds at Soline
Birds at Soline
Somehow this makes me think of the Seven Dwarves. The hills in the background are Croatia.
Somehow this makes me think of the Seven Dwarves. The hills in the background belong to Croatia.
Abandoned stone house along the salt pans
Abandoned stone house along the salt pans
The sunset gave us amazing light
The sunset gave us amazing light
This one's going up on the wall when we get home!
This one's going up on the wall when we get home!
Beautiful golden hour light on a deserted stone cottage
Beautiful golden hour light on a deserted stone cottage
Ancient canal
Ancient canal
The Three Majas, aka The Pink Ladies
The Three Majas, aka The Pink Ladies
Soline portrait
Soline portrait
And the sun goes down
And the sun goes down
Beautiful sunset
Beautiful sunset
Goodnight sun
Good night, sun

A Little Bit Italian: Piran, Slovenija

On our honeymoon, Larry and I went on a day trip to the coast – all 20 kilometers of it. Slovenija unfortunately does not have much coastline owing to the fact that Italy and Croatia took most of it for themselves. Don’t even get Slovenes started on Croatia – they’re not happy about Croatia stealing all the coastline, in addition to the fact that they’re in a battle right now over access to the open sea. At any rate, the modest coastline that Slovenija does hold along the Adriatic is picturesque and charming and . . . a little bit Italian. The town we will be spending two weeks in is Piran – first settled by the Venetians several hundred years ago and as such, the city looks more like Italy to me than it does Slovenija. Even today, you can see Trieste, the nearest major Italian port city, in the distance from the rooftops of Piran. The residents even speak with an Italian accent here – and I can tell that though I don’t speak the language!

Tartini Square at the center of Piran
Tartini Square at the center of Piran
Tartini Square is named for the famous violinist, Giuseppe Tartini
Tartini Square is named for the famous violinist, Giuseppe Tartini, who was born in Piran
Tartini Square is also the place where all the mothers bring their young children to play in the evenings
Tartini Square is also the place where all the mothers bring their young children to play in the evenings
CindyLou Who riding her pink scooter at Tartini Square
CindyLou Who riding her pink scooter at Tartini Square

On our day trip a few years ago, we spent a few hours in Piran and vowed to come back – so here we are. We’ve got a tiny apartment for the next two weeks in the middle of this tiny little ancient town. The streets are so narrow you can’t imagine anyone driving a car down them – until you see someone doing it. Yet another reason the European auto market is full of much smaller cars.

Narrow Piran streets
Narrow Piran streets
Piran streets
Piran streets
Old friends going to the square
Old friends going to the square

One secret about Slovenija is that it has amazing calamari. Larry always told me this and I had a hard time believing him until we visited and I tried for myself. Seriously – it’s amazing. It bears no resemblance whatsoever to the rubbery, over-coated stuff you get in the states. And being a seacoast town, Larry and I immediately headed to one of the waterfront restaurants where we had some for lunch. I can’t get enough of this stuff!!!

Calamari!
Calamari!

Though it is late September, the air on the coast is still warm and the water temperature is still 73 degrees. There are still plenty of people swimming!

Walking along the ancient city walls which follow the coastline
Walking along the ancient city walls which follow the coastline
The harbor at sunset
The harbor at sunset
Looking down on the peninsula from the medieval town fortifications
Looking down on the peninsula from the medieval town fortifications

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