While in Provence, Larry and I loved seeing the cute little baby olives on all the olive trees. Traditionally, olive harvesting time is in November and December, so we’re in Tuscany just in time to catch the harvest (and take home some fresh olive oil!). Recently we were on our way out shopping when we spotted some locals harvesting their olive trees. The harvesting process is extremely manual and difficult. They essentially need to be harvested by hand, then gently placed in crates where they won’t crush or bruise, before being taken to the local mill to be pressed into pulp, to harvest that beautiful liquid gold. Only the olives harvested in this manner will be turned into extra virgin olive oil. They lay nets out around the bottom of the trees to catch any olives that may fall – these olives will be damaged and therefore are not good enough to go into the best oil, so they will be used for soap or other secondary items. In order to produce the best, most pure, and least acidic olive oil, the olives must be pressed within 24 hours of picking, preferably in an oxygen-free environment (oxygen ruins the taste). I’ll bet you had no idea so much work went into that bottle, did you?
One recent weekend Larry and I went on a drive and ended up at a little antiques market in the neighboring town of Castiglion Fiorentino. What a great spot for people watching, on top of interesting antiques (and junk).
Castiglion FiorentinoAntiques market in the town parkChecking out the merchandiseAn afternoon outing for friendsArmy surplus tableAfternoon sun
The other night I walked into the bedroom for some reason and saw a little bug scampering along the floorboard. Something about his shape caught my eye so I went closer to get a better look. I saw pincers. And then said, “Uh, Larry? I think that’s a scorpion.” Sure enough, it was. A little tiny baby one, trying to find a crack in the floorboard so he could get out of the light (they hate bright light, and they live in cracks between rocks, which is why there are so many near to these old stone walls and homes). Larry said, “I want to put him in a jar and study him!” So, he got a jar, caught the little guy (who was mad as he** at finding himself in this new glass prison), and named him Tony the Tuscan. Larry looked him up and found his species, and we figured out he was just a little baby (I hope his mother isn’t nearby!). We’ll be checking under the bed every night before we go to sleep from now on. The funny thing is I lived in Phoenix for two years and never came across a scorpion once.
He doesn’t like Larry at all. Every time Larry picks up the jar he charges at him through the glass (he doesn’t do it when I pick it up). Since then, we’ve decided to take him for a ride – so he’s away from houses – and let him go. He deserves to live his little life out in peace.
Recently Larry and I decided to take a road trip over to Lake Trasimeno and the nearby town of Castiglione del Lago. We had wanted to get a closer look at the famed spot of the battle between the Carthaginians and the Romans, and had heard the town was worth seeing as well. While in Castiglione del Lago, we explored the ruins of a fortress which overlooked the lake. It was surrounded by old, gnarly olive trees full of ripe olives (it’s olive harvesting time – fun!). These olive trees have so much character – I just love their silver-green leaves and gnarly trunks. We walked through the town where I decided to buy a hat from the local knitting shop. The elderly woman who ran the shop cut the tag off for me, put it on my head, put her hands on my cheeks and pronounced, “Bello!” So sweet!!
Lake TrasimenoFortress, Castiglione del LagoPerspective, FortressLake Trasimeno and two lone fishermanRipe olives, fortressSplit olive tree trunkLooking up at the fortressLooking through the olive treeOlive tree trunk RorschachLooking down the main street, Castiglione del LagoBuilding detail, Castiglione del LagoChurch interior, Castiglione del LagoTown churchAncient town gateLarry caught this antique shop owner, reopening after siesta, conversing with his neighbor.Flower shopOut for an afternon stroll
While I was still out of commission with food poisoning, Larry ventured out to find a grocery store and took a walk around our new town. He came back and said, “This might be the cutest town we’ve stayed in this entire trip.” We’ve been in some pretty awesome places, so for him to make such a strong statement is saying something.
When we were in Provence, while our apartment was in a small city in the valley, we were very near to the Luberon range and all of the beautiful hilltop towns that go along with it. We both said, “I’d love to stay in one of these hilltop towns sometime.” A few months later, we’re getting our wish in the form of Cortona, Italy. What is funny about it is that this was quite a happy accident. As with many other of our apartments on this trip, where we ended up isn’t necessarily where we originally targeted to be, and yet where we ended up has turned out to be a much better spot than if we’d gotten our first choice location.
Myth and legend envelop the city’s founding, but one thing is known for certain: Cortona is a very ancient city, and is popularly known as the Mother of Troy and Grandmother of Rome. Enclosed by stone walls built by the Etruscans from 800 BC and earlier, and surrounded by royal Etruscan tombs, Cortona is one of the oldest towns in Italy. Cortona also has the distinction of gaining modern fame with American audiences through Frances Mayes’ book Under the Tuscan Sun (the movie was also filmed here). It’s a quintessential hilltop Tuscan town.
Driving through the medieval city gate to our new home, we were elated with our good fortune. We are happily domiciled at the very top of the town, surrounded by the ancient Etruscan walls, on the ground floor of a stone house built in the 15th Century. We have access to stand on the ancient Etruscan wall from the garden of the home, and have a breathtakingly beautiful view of the Val di Chiana below us. We also have a view of nearby Lake Trasimeno, site of the famous battle in 217 BC between the Carthaginians, led by Hannibal, and the Romans. The Romans were defeated in what is still known today as one of the most successful ambushes in military history.
Once I recovered from the food poisoning, we set out to explore the town. The main part of the town is down a considerable slope from where we are living, which makes the long, steep climb back up a bit of a killer! It’s quite understandable why everyone here, including the elderly, seem very fit and spry!
Our new padThe Etruscan wall that runs from the gardenView of Cortona from our spot, sunlight shining on the town cemeteryLooking down the street Monastery down the streetDoorway in CortonaPiazza SignorelliThere was a performance in front of the Etruscan Museum when Larry went to explore the townTown Hall and the square where everyone gathers to gossipCatching up with the townsfolkTown Hall, CortonaTaking an afternoon strollAhh, l'amoreAfternoon sun in the Val di ChianaWindow shoppingThe church just below usFiery sunsetIvy changing colorOut walking with the dogWe stopped for dinner at a restaurant named Nessun Dorma. I couldn't resist since that's my favorite aria. What a beautiful place!We found this little guy guarding his corner on our way home from dinner. He charged at us 1,000 miles an hour, looking so ferocious, and then stopped and let us know that the toll to pass was lots of petting and scratching.
