Normandy Day 1: Utah Beach Ceremony and Fireworks

I have never felt much for France or the French. Ironically, I have more French blood than any other but English and Norwegian, yet have never felt any sort of affinity for the place or the people. Through movies and literature I have a strong attraction to the south of France and the beautiful countryside and “provincial” living they have there (as for the name, Provence was the first Roman province outside of Italy), but Paris has only been a minor draw for me. Lisa, on the other hand, loves France. She particularly loves Paris, and has been here many times to satisfy — and feed — her affection for it. So I knew when we began planning this adventure that a large segment would be spent in Paris.

But ever since we had decided to begin our adventure in Paris, I have been determined to take a side trip northwest to Normandy. Ever since I was a child watching documentaries and movies about WWII I’ve wanted to visit the place where so many sacrificed everything for the noble cause of freedom. I’ve wanted to stand on the shores where they struggled and see the things that many of them saw as their last. I’ve always felt a strong and sacred reverence for those who’ve fought and died in honor (particularly Americans, being the patriot I am) — had their lives cut short, leaving families, wives, and girlfriends to spend a lifetime of grief over them. So a weekend in Normandy was in the plans.

Lisa has a special talent for planning excursions and with little persuasion she began a rough assembly of places and things to see. I thought it might be nice to go over Memorial Day weekend, since, well, it’s Memorial Day. But after a little digging Lisa let me know that not only was the anniversary of the Normandy landings coming up, but it was the 65th anniversary and likely to be the last one many of the surviving veterans would attend. What luck! We delayed the trip to June 5-7, the 6th being the D-Day anniversary.

We have been spending a lot of time on our work projects and touring Paris as much as possible so we decided to take this weekend a little more loosely than even we typically do. (We usually plan our trips very loosely because we like to leave room for flexibility to change our plans.)

Getting Out of Paris

We rented a little Peugeot very similar to the one that we’ve purchased for this trip (and will pick up on Sunday) from a local rental agency and began the nearly three hour drive northwest to Normandy. Traffic in Paris is not all that different from New York City, especially in rush hour. There are the drivers who are overly cautious, those that are frankly not fit for the road, and those such as taxis and sports cars who are certainly driving too wildly for the conditions. The roundabout surrounding the Arc de Triomphe is particularly harrowing, as the roundabouts we like are usually no more than 2, maybe 3 lanes wide. In this one, there can be 8 or more cars side-by-side going roundabout, each constantly darting in and out of each other, cutting each other off, merging without looking, stopping suddenly, or changing their minds simultaneously, all trying to make their respective exit of the 12 available. It’s a huge, high-speed, metallic mosh pit.

We continued past the Arc on the Champs Elysees toward the Grande Arche de la Defense, the giant square arched monument/office building in the business center of Paris. Before you reach the monument, the highway cuts underground and heads out of town.

Normandy Countryside
Normandy Countryside

Not far out of town, civilization dwindles to a minimum, giving way to sprawling green farms with tiny towns that dot the countryside. Our route passed Giverny where Claude Monet lived and painted some of his most famous works, including all of those in his garden with the red bridge over the pond full of water lillies. You know the ones. But that will be another trip, or this trip a little later on. Getting closer to Normandy, the flat landscape becomes one of rolling hills and larger farms. It reminded us of Scotland, which we loved so much, and pictures we’ve seen of Ireland where we haven’t yet been. The place reminded me of a beautiful lyric by Marillion, “a tattered necklace of hedge and trees on the southern side of the hill, betrays where the border runs between, where Mary Dunoon’s boy fell”. These same lines of hedge and trees were considered by Eisenhower to be one of the most difficult aspects of warfare on that land as their mass and shadows kept countless snipers and enemy forces well hidden at frequent intervals, and taking that land was both slow and very costly in lives.

Farmhouse B&B
Farmhouse B&B

Our Little Cottage by The Sea

As we always do on our excursions, we reported first to our lodgings, a little farmhouse conversion with cottages in the back, to drop off our belongings and then headed out to see the sights. Our first taste of the commemoration events was turning onto a small country road and finding ourselves following a vintage 1940’s U.S. Army Jeep meticulously restored and flying a Old Glory from its tall antenna. We drove in formation for some miles before we broke off to drive along the coast towards our planned destination of Utah Beach, which is on the far west side of the D-Day beach areas.

On the way we passed through the small town of Insigny-sur-Mer. It was full of vintage vehicles, Jeeps, motorcycles, trucks, personnel carriers, etc. all parked around the tiny circular town square. We pressed on westward and arrived not long before dark at Utah Beach.

Utah Beach

Utah Beach Fireworks
Utah Beach Fireworks

Much like a massive rock concert, the parking extended a half mile away from the beach itself and we walked quickly to catch as much light as possible. When we arrived to the event area in the grass and dunes near the beach, a ceremony was already underway honoring the veterans who were present. US military, French military, and government officials paraded by the crowd to the recently Utah Beach Museum where they broke ground for a new wing that is being financed by the son of an American Normandy Beach veteran. Afterward, we beat the crowd down to the beach itself where coordinated fireworks in 25 different locations across all of Normandy’s beaches soon began. Certainly not the biggest or most impressive round of fireworks we’ve ever seen, but the special meaning of the time and place, with the coordination along the many beaches, made it very memorable.

After stopping by a closed McDonald’s on the way home, and camping out in front to use their WiFi for a while, we returned to our small cottage on the farm and turned in for the night with big plans for the following day.

More to come…

Bicycles and The Eiffel Tower

Running Out of Time in Paris

We’ve realized that we are quickly running out of time here, and with a laundry list of things left to do. I’m never as productive with my time as I’d like to think I am. At least we emerged victorious from the last round of shoe shopping for Larry over the weekend. Yea for us! And we got to see a neighborhood that we had not previously been to on this visit, the 11th Arrondissement near the Bastille. It was not the well-manicured, looks-just-so, type of neighborhood that we’re living in. No Kenzo or Armani boutiques, no pricey hotels or restaurants. It had a lot more ethnic restaurants and stores, more graffiti, and felt just a bit more run down. We actually weren’t far from the Pere Lachaise cemetery but we were too tired after all the shoe shopping to trek over there. Oscar Wilde and Chopin will have to wait a bit longer for our visit.

Vélo (bicycle) + liberté (freedom) = Vélib. But not for us.

In the summer of 2007, Paris launched a grand undertaking in the form of Vélib. Vélib is a community automated bike rental system born of a symbiotic relationship between City Hall and JCDecaux, the French advertising company. JCDecaux has a contract with the city of Paris in which it has agreed to administer the Vélib program in exchange for free use of some 1,600 advertising boards around the city, and a share of the bike rental fees that it produces. You cannot walk around Paris without noticing the Vélib stations prominently featured at every Metro station and more – within the borders of Paris there are over 20,000 bikes at nearly 1,500 stations which are situated roughly 300 meters apart, and they are available 24/7. Vélib was an instant hit when it debuted and has only grown in popularity. The Vélib program is now being rolled out to many of the suburbs surrounding Paris. The idea behind the program is to increase convenience and mobility for Parisians, as well as provide a “green” form of transportation. The intent is for users to just take them to get from one spot to the other, or to run quick errands. You can subscribe to a one year pass for 29 Euro, and each time you take a bike the first 1/2 hour is free. I actually don’t know if they make money off of it. The bikes themselves are functionally designed for the program and certainly not the sporty lightweight mountain bikes that Larry and I are used to at home. But they get the job done.

Velib station in Paris
Velib station in Paris

When Larry and I were here in July 2007, we noticed these community bikes parked all around town and decided to take a spin. Except we could not get the automated station to accept our credit card. Any of our cards. We went through the arduous task of selecting the type of plan we wanted (you have a choice of a 1 day or 1 week plan, which are 1 Euro and 5 Euros, respectively), agreeing to the terms and conditions, and inserting our card, only to be told each time that the card was not accepted. We got frustrated and gave up.

Now that we’re back for a longer trip, we decided to give them another chance. After having dinner at our favorite neighborhood brasserie, we went up to the closest Vélib station to check out bikes. And again could not get the computer to accept our credit card. The problem we had, and have had in other places, is that all European credit cards are implanted with a chip which is read by the machine, rather than the magnetic strip that US credit card readers generally rely upon. These stations were obviously designed to read the chip implanted cards, but could not read our plain ol’ magnetic strips. We tried a few different kinds of cards and gave up, vowing to return the next day with even more kinds of credit cards. One of them had to work, eventually. Defeated yet again by the Vélib man behind the curtain.

The next evening we returned with every type of credit card I brought to Europe with me. We were determined to make it work. And finally – the American Express came through for us! Go figure. Happily we chose our bikes and withdrew them from the terminals, and headed off in the direction of the Eiffel Tower. Riding these bikes is definitely not the same as my Trek at home – I felt like an unstable newbie who hadn’t been on a bike in 10 years.

We got to the Eiffel Tower quickly and enjoyed our ride down the Champs de Mars promenade and under the tower. Only the line to take the ascenseur (elevator) to the top was long. Very long. We had hoped that by going in the middle of a random weekday we would evade some of the crowds but our hopes were dashed. We are in full tourist season now.

We also couldn’t find a Vélib station to drop the bikes. Despite knowing there were several in the area, and despite running into them without trying on every other outing we’ve taken here, without knowing the exact location we could not seem to catch sight of a single one in the area. So, we decided to press on and take a little bike tour of the city. We crossed the Pont d’Iéna which runs just behind the Eiffel Tower, and rode up toward the Trocadéro area on the paths surrounding the Palais de Chaillot, where I happily collapsed on the grass and Larry took advantage of my exhaustion by snapping a picture.

Biking across the pont
Biking across the pont
Stopping for a few pictures
Stopping for a few pictures
Taking a rest
Taking a rest

We were able to spend some time tooling around the rive droite before heading back across to the rive gauche and visiting Lady Liberty’s little sister. They are looking at each other across the Atlantic.

Lady Liberty's Little Sister
Lady Liberty's Little Sister

The Birds and The Second Louvre Visit

The Tuilleries is for the Birds; Le Louvre Part II

We made another visit to the Louvre this week as well, first stopping to sit in the Tuilleries and eat some sandwiches. Several of our winged friends helped me finish mine. At first I just threw pieces of bread, cheese or meat down to them, which inevitably resulted in at least a 10-way fight until one tenacious fellow grabbed the whole piece and flew off, victorious, with his treasure in his beak, usually followed by at least one competitor in hot pursuit where I can only assume the bickering continued. After a while I figured out how to get them to line up next to me on the bench in an orderly fashion and wait for their piece. They were not shy. (Don’t worry, I washed my hands to avoid any bird flu contamination).

Sharing my lunch
Sharing my lunch
Cafeteria queue
Cafeteria queue

One little girl was so perfectly comfortable with us that she curled up on the arm rest next to me and took a nap. Too cute.

Nap time
Nap time

We spent our time in the Louvre this week primarily on the top floor of the Richelieu wing, which is where the Dutch masters such as Rembrandt and Vermeer reside. We saw some beautiful paintings – the details in some of these paintings are just incredible. It gives me a headache just to try to focus in on the detail, I can’t imagine painting it.

Dutch master
Rembrandt works
Rembrandt: St. Matthew and the Angel
Rembrandt: St. Matthew and the Angel
Rembrandt: Isaac Blessing Jacob
Rembrandt: Isaac Blessing Jacob

We finished with a walk through one part of the sculpture wing.

Louvre Sculptures
Louvre Sculptures: A very small sampling
Yes, that is silver
Yes, that really is silver

And of course, finished off our day of high culture and art with a visit to McDonald’s. We have discovered that McDonald’s is our Wi-Fi savior in France when we are out and about and need a connection on our phones. Every McDonald’s is equipped with unlimited, free, wi-fi.

Parisian Tex-Mex

We finished off the week with a visit to a local cinema where we were able to view “Terminator Renaissance” on a screen slightly larger than a home theater. They haven’t quite been able to adapt their ancient architecture to be friendly with the idea of stadium seating, unfortunately. Prior to the movie as we were looking for a restaurant we spotted an awning that advertised “Tex-Mex”. We couldn’t resist the idea of trying out a Parisian’s idea of Tex-Mex and were even more entertained when we got closer and realized that the name of the restaurant was the “Indiana Cafe”. Indiana Tex-Mex? The menu did have a surprising variety of traditional Tex-Mex specialties. While we waited for our chimichangas and enchiladas we created the story of the owner in our minds. Larry and I both imagine that (s)he either went to college or did an exchange year at Purdue, and there was some Tex-Mex restaurant nearby (Chevy’s?) that (s)he loved so much, (s)he decided to bring it back to Paris and open his/her own place.

We are off in the morning to Normandy. This weekend is the 65th anniversary of the D-Day landings and we would like to be there to pay tribute to the thousands of Americans, British, Canadians, and others who paid the ultimate price and are still there, never to return home.

Loving To Be “Tired of Being Sorry”

We were in a store the other day doing a little shopping when I heard a really catchy song on the in-store system. In an unbreakable trance I made my way to the nearest speaker and listened for a bit before realizing I need to find out what/who it was. Luckily I have Shazam on my iPhone, so I held it up and recorded/tagged it. Shazam is a MUST HAVE. The song is called “Tired of Being Sorry”.

Not being much of an Enrique Iglesias fan at all, it pains me to say that I can’t get enough of this song. Lisa and I have played it probably 50 times in the last several days. It was written by a guy named Scott Thomas, the lead singer of the band Ringside. (For you Brothers and Sisters fans, Balthazar Getty is the keyboardist and other half of Ringside). Iglesias knows a catchy money-making single when he hears one, so he put it on an album, which attracted this French-Algerian track-star-turned-pop-star Nadiya to do a duet version, which you can see in the video below. I also like the original Ringside version, find various live versions on YouTube. The excellent Ringside version music video was directed by Joaquin Phoenix and is also farther below.

Enjoy at your own risk. If you have addictive genes, better to bypass this one.

People, Places, and Things

This adventure is a really interesting and educational experiment. It’s not so much of an education that I’m bored and wishing the teacher would move quicker through the material, like back in the day. But it’s a steady and ambling education as I observe and absorb the people, places, and things of our first stop. France. If not the first, at least one of the early lessons that occurred to me recently, while Lisa and I were sitting in a park enjoying a late breakfast of yogurt and pain au chocolat, was that while the country had changed, very nearly everything seems to be the same. Well, I shouldn’t say the same, but patterns so similar you would have a hard time telling them apart from a distance. That is, that while we have changed so much, the place, the people, and the things around us here in Paris are very much the same as living in New York.

Being on many rushed and event/landmark/eatery/attraction-filled trips over my lifetime, I have never had the luxury of time to absorb the similarities.

People

I’ve passed the grumbling Parisian woman as we squeezed by each other on the too-narrow sidewalk, I’ve heard the disapproving grunt of a well-dressed but surly looking man in the Epicerie when I was standing a little too far back in the aisle looking at the wonderful goods. I’ve seen the bus driver watch with cold detachment as a dejected runner failed to get to the stop before he unnecessarily rushed the bus away. I’ve seen the bad French you hear about.

I’ve also seen a crowd of teenage girls on a crowded bus watch vigilantly for an elderly woman to whom they could offer their seat, and, one by one all end up standing long before their stop had come. I’ve seen two shop keepers who didn’t speak a word of English gesture and sign their way through directions to a competitor down the road that might have my size. I’ve seen a girl in a copy shop who refused to charge us for the few critical copies of documents that we needed made. I’ve seen the most respectful and cordial communication and affection shown between otherwise strangers all over this city. I’ve seen incredible patience shown to loud tourists with poor manners that I certainly wouldn’t have tolerated in their place. I’ve seen a wide and rich swath of humanity and every role has a counterpart in the every major U.S. city. To be honest though, people are significantly more thoughtless and abrupt in New York than they are here. Perhaps I shouldn’t compare those, as the difficulties of living in New York invariably turn people cold and hard over time. Perhaps some of that occurs here too. A couple of months won’t show me that. But let me end this section with a story from early in the trip.

On our second day in Paris, we found the nearest grocery store with the combination of decent size and reasonable price (as opposed to the very gourmet Grand Epicere which is the former and not the latter) and loaded ourselves up with the staples and treats necessary for setting up house in our little rented apartment. Behind us in the check-out line was a gentleman who watched with some amusement and surprising patience as our massive load of consumables rode down the conveyor toward an every growing tally of little green digits. When l’addition was complete, I reached out to swipe my credit card in the most logical of the card reader’s two slots, but was stopped by the man behind us in line. He said in broken English, “you must use this one, here,” pointing to the other slot. I smiled and managed a poorly pronounced “merci” and slid my card through the one he indicated. It didn’t scan. I tried again. No luck. As I went for a third, the girl working the register said something to the man. He looked at me sheepishly and pointed to the other slot, the original one that had seemed right to me the first time. We laughed as I scanned the card and completely the transaction. He said “Sorry.” I said, “no problem at all, thank you for trying to help.” He smiled and said “I was so proud to know, and then I was wrong.” We laughed and patted each other on the shoulder before parting. Good guy. Just trying to help. He could have been annoyed with us seeing his milk, bread, and cheese, against our week’s worth of groceries (the kind of bulk they simply don’t buy as a quick trip to the store is a daily stop). He could have watched the “silly American” suffer as he thought I was scanning my card the wrong way, and chuckled at the confusion. But instead he reached out to me. Even though he wasn’t right about the scanner, he was right as a person trying to be helpful and I appreciated it regardless of outcome.

Places

Paris has the Eiffel Tower, New York has the Statue of Liberty. Paris has the Seine, New York has the Hudson and New York Harbor. Paris has Notre Dame de Paris, New York has St. Patricks’s and St. John The Divine. Paris has the Louvre and Orsay, New York has The Met and Natural History.

As much as there are such significant cultural and historic differences between them, living in a foreign place, rather than just staying for a week or so in a hotel, lends itself to contemplation and then realization of the commonalities between large historic cities of the world. All of them have tourist attractions and churches, gardens and parks. All of them have stores, restaurants, libraries, charming streets and dirty streets. Each has good neighborhoods and bad, strengths and weaknesses — and all of them have compressed humanity filling every door and window, nearly every crack in the jungle of stone, glass, and concrete.

Roaming around Paris on various aimless explorations we’ve made, as well as on the many errands we have run, we find life here surprisingly ordinary and similar to ours in NYC. The difference, and perhaps the whole worth of the experience and reason to continue this adventure indefinitely, is in the details.

Things

The brands of automobiles and motorcycles, many the same, many different. The brands of food and consumer goods, many the same and so many different. Each and every little difference has been the focus of our attention. We have been seeking out the subtleties in our food selection (rule #1 is to never buy the same thing twice), in our approach to landmarks and attractions (to take the time to see them from a non-tourist angle, from a slower more in-depth perspective) and our wandering, to let ourselves get lost and found over and over. We’ve happened upon some of the most beautiful little streets, shops, views, and corners while exploring.

While the bulk of life in another country, on another continent, is surprisingly very much the same, the details are interestingly very different. And I’m finding that that’s where the beauty and value of travel lies — especially in this long-term travel which Lisa and I are both enjoying so much. Over a lifetime with my creative pursuits (songwriting, poetry, short stories, photography, etc.), and professional career, I’ve spend a great deal of time studying the details of things both objectively and subjectively, to write about them, understand them, and find a fresh perspective on them from which to create something new, or at least a work of my perspective on it. As you can imagine, like a kid in a candy store, this is my kind of trip.

© 2009 Larry L. Hanson

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