Lavender Valley, Lacoste, and the Marquis

Larry and I spent more time exploring the Luberon region the past couple of weeks. Last week our excursion got off to a late start due to our car being towed on account of the traveling carnival for Bastille Day (see Larry’s Bastille Day post). I will say this – the local Carpentras police were very kind and helpful, even giving us a ride to the impound lot so we could pay out the nose to spring our little Pierre (that’s his name) from prison. They even chased us down as we were leaving the local supermarket the next day to tell us that Larry left his international drivers license at the station.

We had decided to take the scenic (and very windy) route up through the Luberon mountain range on our way to check out some of the other Luberon region towns and track down a couple of the filming locations for A Good Year just for kicks, since we both love that movie. It’s a good thing both of us have stomachs of steel because if you are prone to car sickness, this is not the route for you. Especially with Larry driving.

Along our car sickness route
Along our car sickness route
Interesting rock formations along the road
Interesting rock formations along the road

While up in the mountains we saw one of the easily recognized historical marker signs, this one labeled “Abbaye Notre Dame de Sénanque”. While neither of us had heard of it, we decided to follow the road to see where it led. This is what I love about our travel style: we do a lot of research but don’t overdo it or don’t overschedule, we’re curious and spontaneous, and we end up discovering little treasures that we may not have otherwise found.

The Abbaye is a 12th century abbey surrounded by lavender fields, nestled in an isolated valley between mountain peaks. We were both thrilled with the sight. Unfortunately because of our aforesaid late start, the valley was already in shadow. We vowed to come back another day, earlier in the day, to check it out and get some proper pictures.

Abbaye Notre Dame de Senanque
Abbaye Notre Dame de Senanque

We continued down the road to the outskirts of Bonnieux to Chateau La Canorgue, the vineyard where the majority of A Good Year was filmed. Unfortunately the chateau used as the main house in the movie is behind a locked gate and you can’t really get a good view. So – we moved on to Gordes, another beautiful hilltop town and another filming location (location of Fanny Chenal’s bistro, for those of you who have seen the movie).

Gordes
Gordes
One of the many beautiful vineyards
One of the many beautiful vineyards

After driving through there, we drove on through Rousillon, Menerbes, then on to Lacoste where we discovered a haunting and beautiful ruined castle at the top of the mountain. We got out and hiked around a bit, before we noticed a strange modern sculpture of a head enclosed in a cage, surrounded by oversized arms and hands. The sculpture was labeled “Marquis de Sade”. Larry instantly interpreted it to mean that although his body was in prison, his arms and hands (writings) were more powerful, and reached outside the cage in which his body was enclosed. My husband is smart. A quick Wikipedia search when we got home confirmed that (when he wasn’t in prison, or in an insane asylum) this was once the home of the infamous Marquis de Sade. It was purchased by Pierre Cardin in the 1920’s and now they hold an arts festival there every summer.

Lacoste: the Marquis' chateau is at the top
Lacoste: the Marquis' chateau is at the top
Looking across the valley from the chateau at Lacoste
Looking across the valley from the chateau at Lacoste
Remains of the chateau at Lacoste
Remains of the chateau at Lacoste
The Marquis de Sade outside his former home
The Marquis de Sade outside his former home

By the time we left Lacoste, the sun had set, so we started making our way back home, with a quick stop to admire the beauty of Gordes illuminated at night.

Gordes at night
Gordes at night

Return to the Abbaye, Exploring Menerbes

One day last week we decided to return to the Abbaye Notre Dame de Sénanque in proper daylight to explore the abbey and the lavender fields surrounding it.

Stone house in the Luberon
Stone house in the Luberon
Looking down at the abbey
Looking down at the abbey
Abbaye Notre Dame de Senanque
Abbaye Notre Dame de Senanque
The smell of lavender . . .
One of the small lavender fields next to the abbey
Sea of lavender . . .
Sea of lavender . . .
We weren't the only ones enjoying the lavender
We weren't the only ones enjoying the lavender
Another one of Larry's brilliant hand-held self portraits
Another one of Larry's brilliant hand-held self portraits

After leaving the Abbaye, we made a quick stop at Chateau La Canorgue (known as Chateau La Siroque in A Good Year) to try to get a better view. Not much luck. We were amused by the “Beware of Serpents” sign though.

The best shot we could get of the chateau
The best shot we could get of the chateau
The actual 'cav' where Chateau La Canorgue sells its 'bio' (organic) wines
The actual 'cav' where Chateau La Canorgue sells its 'bio' (organic) wines
Serpents!
Serpents!

We drove through some other nearby towns before stopping to explore Menerbes. Menerbes became the most famous of all Luberon towns the minute Peter Mayle published his book. It’s the town he lives near and wrote extensively about.

Menerbes and one of its spry residents
Menerbes and one of its spry residents

It’s yet another gorgeous hilltop town, complete with colorful residents of both the people and animal variety. As we were walking up the road towards the 12th century church, we were greeted enthusiastically by a Jack Russell terrier who took it upon himself to be our personal tour guide up the road, constantly looking back at us to make sure we were still following him, until he had to stop for more pressing business – to have an argument with a nearby shrub. Apparently they had quite a history, and he lost this battle, as he gave the bush a piece of his mind with several growls, and then scuttled back down the road.

Up the road with our new tour guide
Up the road with our new tour guide
The brawl
The brawl

The vistas from the top of the town were just beautiful. It was peaceful, and poetic.

Looking down below
Looking down below
The Mairie (Mayor's Office)
The Mairie (Mayor's Office)
One of the many pretty houses
One of the many pretty houses
Self portrait up on the terrace
Self portrait up on the terrace
Panorama of the valley below
Panorama of the valley below
Another self portrait
Another self portrait
Remains of some of the old fortifications
Remains of some of the old fortifications

Finally, as we drove home near dusk we stopped to take a picture of one of the many fields of sunflowers we drive by on a regular basis. So majestic.

Sunflower field
Sunflower field

Roman Aqueduct, Pont Du Gard (near Nimes, France)

We intended to go to Saint Remy to see the assylum residence of Van Gogh, but we got such a late start that we decided to put that off for another day. Instead we decided to take a drive down to Nimes area to see the Pont Du Gard, the most famous of Roman aqueducts outside of Italy.


Finally caught up!

As we’ve been conspicuously behind on our adventure updates the past few weeks, you’ll be happy to know we have finally caught up. Please check out the following several pages for our final adventures in Normandy, Paris, Mont St. Michel, the Loire Valley, Andorra and Spain, the Dordogne Valley, and finally, our arrival here in Provence.

In Van Gogh Country

After two weeks on the road, we’ve had enough and are ready to settle down for a while. Our digs for the next month are in a 17th century building in a town a little east of Avignon. The apartment is huge (way more room than we are used to in New York!), and beautiful, with two floors, 20 foot ceilings in the living room, and big provincial windows that open wide onto a pretty little courtyard. We are in Van Gogh country. Van Gogh painted the majority of his famous works while living in Arles, and while at the asylum at St. Rémy de Provence, which are both just south of here. And I must admit, it does look like a Van Gogh painting. Most of these farmhouses and towns have been here since before Van Gogh’s time, so really, the scenery hasn’t changed all that much. The sun shines brightly in clear blue skies each day, punctuated occasionally by intense afternoon thunderstorms. The intensity of the sun down here reminds me of Arizona, so, of course, I love it.

We arrived last Saturday afternoon and spent Sunday exploring the towns and countryside of the Luberon a bit. The Luberon is the area made famous more recently by Peter Mayle in his book ‘A Year In Provence’ and the follow up works surrounding it. If you’ve seen the movie ‘A Good Year’ with Russell Crowe (also based off a book authored by Peter Mayle), it was filmed in this region. I got to see my first lavender fields in full bloom! We were especially enamoured of the towns of Lourmarin and Bonnieux. The pictures speak for themselves.

Sun setting on the French countryside, on our way to Provence
Sun setting on the French countryside, on our drive to Provence
Our little courtyard
Our little courtyard
Exploring the Luberon countryside
Exploring the Luberon countryside
Beautiful farmhouse
Beautiful farmhouse
In the town of Lourmarin
In the town of Lourmarin
Village home
Village home
Little baby olives. Harvest time isn't until November.
Little baby olives. Harvest time isn't until November.
Looking down from the town of Bonnieux
Looking down from the town of Bonnieux
Town of Bonnieux
Town of Bonnieux
Lavender fields
Lavender field

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