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Ancient Etruscan Walls: Cortona, Italy

Lisa / October 21, 2009 / Italy, Travel

While I was still out of commission with food poisoning, Larry ventured out to find a grocery store and took a walk around our new town. He came back and said, “This might be the cutest town we’ve stayed in this entire trip.” We’ve been in some pretty awesome places, so for him to make such a strong statement is saying something.

When we were in Provence, while our apartment was in a small city in the valley, we were very near to the Luberon range and all of the beautiful hilltop towns that go along with it. We both said, “I’d love to stay in one of these hilltop towns sometime.” A few months later, we’re getting our wish in the form of Cortona, Italy. What is funny about it is that this was quite a happy accident. As with many other of our apartments on this trip, where we ended up isn’t necessarily where we originally targeted to be, and yet where we ended up has turned out to be a much better spot than if we’d gotten our first choice location.

Myth and legend envelop the city’s founding, but one thing is known for certain: Cortona is a very ancient city, and is popularly known as the Mother of Troy and Grandmother of Rome. Enclosed by stone walls built by the Etruscans from 800 BC and earlier, and surrounded by royal Etruscan tombs, Cortona is one of the oldest towns in Italy. Cortona also has the distinction of gaining modern fame with American audiences through Frances Mayes’ book Under the Tuscan Sun (the movie was also filmed here). It’s a quintessential hilltop Tuscan town.

Driving through the medieval city gate to our new home, we were elated with our good fortune. We are happily domiciled at the very top of the town, surrounded by the ancient Etruscan walls, on the ground floor of a stone house built in the 15th Century. We have access to stand on the ancient Etruscan wall from the garden of the home, and have a breathtakingly beautiful view of the Val di Chiana below us. We also have a view of nearby Lake Trasimeno, site of the famous battle in 217 BC between the Carthaginians, led by Hannibal, and the Romans. The Romans were defeated in what is still known today as one of the most successful ambushes in military history.

Once I recovered from the food poisoning, we set out to explore the town. The main part of the town is down a considerable slope from where we are living, which makes the long, steep climb back up a bit of a killer! It’s quite understandable why everyone here, including the elderly, seem very fit and spry!

The Etruscan wall that runs from the garden; view of Cortona in the distance — The Etruscan wall that runs from the garden

View of Cortona from our spot, sunlight shining on the town cemetery

There was a performance in front of the Etruscan Museum when Larry went to explore the town

Town Hall and the square where everyone gathers to gossip

Sun setting over the Val di Chiana — Afternoon sun in the Val di Chiana

We stopped for dinner at a restaurant named Nessun Dorma. I couldn't resist since that's my favorite aria. What a beautiful place!

We found this little guy guarding his corner on our way home from dinner. He charged at us 1,000 miles an hour, looking so ferocious, and then stopped and let us know that the toll to pass was lots of petting and scratching.

Un-Fun Road Trip: Long Drive from Bellagio to Cortona, Italy

Lisa / October 18, 2009 / Italy, Travel

Although we had a perfect day on Lake Como with our visit to Villa del Balbianello, I was feeling under the weather all day. By that night, I knew it was going to get worse before it got better. I had all the telltale signs of food poisoning. The next morning I was only worse; the full fury of the traitorous food had set in. And we had a 6 hour drive from Bellagio to our new apartment in Cortona ahead of us. All the makings of a memorable road trip. We had an awesome day of beautiful scenery punctuated by pulling into many rest stops along the Autostrada. Unfortunately we had to pass Modena by (balsamico di Modena is one of my favorite things in the whole world!) and I spent the next couple of days in bed. At least my jeans will be looser now (at least until all this delicious pasta sets in!).

Larry had to stop and take a picture of this church - beautiful!

Me mostly dead after arriving at the new apartment in Cortona. It was a long day.

Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como, Italy

Lisa / October 17, 2009 / Italy, Travel

Because our first visit to Bellagio a couple of years ago was so short on time we didn’t have much time to tour the area. Since we had a little bit more time this round, we decided to spend a gorgeous afternoon taking the ferry across the lake to visit the famed Villa del Balbianello.

One of the many beautiful towns along Lake Como

Yet another Lake Como mansion — Beautiful buildings

Another beautiful church in the afternoon sunshine

Villa del Balbianello is just one of many beautiful, historic, gigantic mansions on Lake Como, although a slightly more famous one than some of the others. Having been used as a movie set for Star Wars Episode II (where Padme comforted Anakin after his nightmare, and where they got married), Oceans Twelve, and Casino Royale (where Bond was recuperating from his torture), many movie fans will recognize its features. Truly though – it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. It is otherworldly.

Originally built for Cardinal Angelo Maria Durini at the end of the 18th century, it passed through several hands before being purchased by famed Italian explorer Guido Monzino. Mr. Monzino then left it to a national historic trust when he passed. I have to say that despite the fact that I wasn’t feeling well (oncoming food poisoning), this was one of my favorite days of the trip. Because we’re past tourist season, there weren’t a lot of other people at the Villa; we practically had the place to ourselves. We were able to take a tour of the house itself – left as Mr. Monzino left it, including his impressive Chinese, African, and Pre-Columbian art collection as well as all of his expedition artifacts (he was the first Italian to climb Everest). The weather was absolutely gorgeous. It couldn’t have been a more perfect day. We reluctantly hopped back on the ferry to Bellagio when the Villa closed for the day. This is definitely also on my “must return” list.

As you can see, it sits all by itself on the tip of a peninsula

The ferry docks at the stairs. Until recently, boat was the only way to reach Villa del Balbianello.

Walking up to the oldest part of the structure

The terrace where Padme and Anakin got married

The lawn where Bond convalesced after his torture — The lawn where Bond engaged in a little r&r after his torture

The ivy is purposely shaped like serpents. Serpents were part of the crest of the Monzi family. — The ivy is purposely shaped like serpents. Serpents were part of the crest of the aristocratic family who owned it in the 19th century.

Because the villa was originally built for a Cardinal, it of course contained a monastery. The monastery was later de-consecrated and houses kitchen, dining room, and smoking room.

The gardens were just stunning, everywhere you turned

Return to Bellagio: Lake Como, Italy

Lisa / October 17, 2009 / Italy, Travel

A couple of years ago, Larry and I had the chance to make a quick stop in Bellagio, on Lake Como. We were only there for a short night but fell in love and absolutely couldn’t wait to return. We got our chance this trip. We had a few extra days before our apartment in Tuscany was ready, and since it was going to be snowing in Vienna, we opted to return to Bellagio instead. It’s as beautiful as I remember, and we were treated to excellent weather. I can’t wait to go back again.

Looking over to the main part of Bellagio

Looking up one of Bellagio's pedestrian streets

The Disappearing Lake: Lake Cerknica, Slovenija

Lisa / October 16, 2009 / Slovenija, Travel

When Larry and I became engaged, I had one of the most brilliant gift ideas I’ve ever had for the guy who is impossible to buy for. Larry loves maps, especially old maps. Larry loves Slovenija. So I did a lot of research and found an antique map dealer in Germany who had a circa 1710 map of what is now Slovenija (then known as Carniola, a part of the Austro-Hungarian empire). It was so much fun torturing him with the surprise for weeks before it was ready (it had to be shipped, then I had to get it framed by a special conservation framer). Larry can’t take surprises, he’s like a 5-year-old. I endured a lot of tickle torture but still refused to reveal my hand. Finally, it arrived and one night after work I handed him a nondescript, flat, cardboard box. He immediately assumed I had gotten a framed print of the Great Salt Lake (another great love in his life) and was confused when he opened it – until he saw the inset of the skyline of Ljubljana labeled “Laybach” (the ancient name for Ljubljana). All of the churches in that skyline still exist in modern Ljubljana, so it was easily recognizable to him.

I tell you all this to explain why we ended up at this spot below. In the another inset of the map, there was a drawing of Lake Cerknica, otherwise known as The Disappearing Lake. Lake Cerknica is a natural phenomenon in which the rains and spring runoff fill it for part of the year, and for the rest of the year, it sits empty. When it is full, it is the largest lake in Slovenija. The lake is connected to a subterranean labyrinth that spews out or swallows up water, and is directly connected to the water table in the area. The ancient Romans first noticed it and before scientific study could explain this phenomenon in the 18th century, the locals were fascinated with it. Which is how it ended up on Larry’s map. We vowed to visit The Disappearing Lake one day.

On our way out of Slovenija, as we headed for the Italian border, we took a little detour. Yep, Lake Cerknica. This is the time of the year when it is mostly empty, but you can easily see where the water line ends, and it is massive! It’s hard to believe all that water appears and disappears every year. Next time we hope to visit during a time when the lake is filled.

The area is surrounded by beautiful farmlands

The lake! Or - what is the lake when it's full.

One of the many bird inhabitants soaring over his kingdom

Along the road going through Lake Cerknica