Recently Larry and I decided to take a road trip over to Lake Trasimeno and the nearby town of Castiglione del Lago. We had wanted to get a closer look at the famed spot of the battle between the Carthaginians and the Romans, and had heard the town was worth seeing as well. While in Castiglione del Lago, we explored the ruins of a fortress which overlooked the lake. It was surrounded by old, gnarly olive trees full of ripe olives (it’s olive harvesting time – fun!). These olive trees have so much character – I just love their silver-green leaves and gnarly trunks. We walked through the town where I decided to buy a hat from the local knitting shop. The elderly woman who ran the shop cut the tag off for me, put it on my head, put her hands on my cheeks and pronounced, “Bello!” So sweet!!
Lake TrasimenoFortress, Castiglione del LagoPerspective, FortressLake Trasimeno and two lone fishermanRipe olives, fortressSplit olive tree trunkLooking up at the fortressLooking through the olive treeOlive tree trunk RorschachLooking down the main street, Castiglione del LagoBuilding detail, Castiglione del LagoChurch interior, Castiglione del LagoTown churchAncient town gateLarry caught this antique shop owner, reopening after siesta, conversing with his neighbor.Flower shopOut for an afternon stroll
While I was still out of commission with food poisoning, Larry ventured out to find a grocery store and took a walk around our new town. He came back and said, “This might be the cutest town we’ve stayed in this entire trip.” We’ve been in some pretty awesome places, so for him to make such a strong statement is saying something.
When we were in Provence, while our apartment was in a small city in the valley, we were very near to the Luberon range and all of the beautiful hilltop towns that go along with it. We both said, “I’d love to stay in one of these hilltop towns sometime.” A few months later, we’re getting our wish in the form of Cortona, Italy. What is funny about it is that this was quite a happy accident. As with many other of our apartments on this trip, where we ended up isn’t necessarily where we originally targeted to be, and yet where we ended up has turned out to be a much better spot than if we’d gotten our first choice location.
Myth and legend envelop the city’s founding, but one thing is known for certain: Cortona is a very ancient city, and is popularly known as the Mother of Troy and Grandmother of Rome. Enclosed by stone walls built by the Etruscans from 800 BC and earlier, and surrounded by royal Etruscan tombs, Cortona is one of the oldest towns in Italy. Cortona also has the distinction of gaining modern fame with American audiences through Frances Mayes’ book Under the Tuscan Sun (the movie was also filmed here). It’s a quintessential hilltop Tuscan town.
Driving through the medieval city gate to our new home, we were elated with our good fortune. We are happily domiciled at the very top of the town, surrounded by the ancient Etruscan walls, on the ground floor of a stone house built in the 15th Century. We have access to stand on the ancient Etruscan wall from the garden of the home, and have a breathtakingly beautiful view of the Val di Chiana below us. We also have a view of nearby Lake Trasimeno, site of the famous battle in 217 BC between the Carthaginians, led by Hannibal, and the Romans. The Romans were defeated in what is still known today as one of the most successful ambushes in military history.
Once I recovered from the food poisoning, we set out to explore the town. The main part of the town is down a considerable slope from where we are living, which makes the long, steep climb back up a bit of a killer! It’s quite understandable why everyone here, including the elderly, seem very fit and spry!
Our new padThe Etruscan wall that runs from the gardenView of Cortona from our spot, sunlight shining on the town cemeteryLooking down the street Monastery down the streetDoorway in CortonaPiazza SignorelliThere was a performance in front of the Etruscan Museum when Larry went to explore the townTown Hall and the square where everyone gathers to gossipCatching up with the townsfolkTown Hall, CortonaTaking an afternoon strollAhh, l'amoreAfternoon sun in the Val di ChianaWindow shoppingThe church just below usFiery sunsetIvy changing colorOut walking with the dogWe stopped for dinner at a restaurant named Nessun Dorma. I couldn't resist since that's my favorite aria. What a beautiful place!We found this little guy guarding his corner on our way home from dinner. He charged at us 1,000 miles an hour, looking so ferocious, and then stopped and let us know that the toll to pass was lots of petting and scratching.
Although we had a perfect day on Lake Como with our visit to Villa del Balbianello, I was feeling under the weather all day. By that night, I knew it was going to get worse before it got better. I had all the telltale signs of food poisoning. The next morning I was only worse; the full fury of the traitorous food had set in. And we had a 6 hour drive from Bellagio to our new apartment in Cortona ahead of us. All the makings of a memorable road trip. We had an awesome day of beautiful scenery punctuated by pulling into many rest stops along the Autostrada. Unfortunately we had to pass Modena by (balsamico di Modena is one of my favorite things in the whole world!) and I spent the next couple of days in bed. At least my jeans will be looser now (at least until all this delicious pasta sets in!).
Goodbye Bellagio!Looking down along Lake ComoSo many picturesque spotsLarry had to stop and take a picture of this church - beautiful!Me mostly dead after arriving at the new apartment in Cortona. It was a long day.
Because our first visit to Bellagio a couple of years ago was so short on time we didn’t have much time to tour the area. Since we had a little bit more time this round, we decided to spend a gorgeous afternoon taking the ferry across the lake to visit the famed Villa del Balbianello.
Looking back at Bellagio from the ferryOne of the many beautiful towns along Lake ComoBeautiful buildingsAnother beautiful lakeside townAnother beautiful church in the afternoon sunshineWow
Villa del Balbianello is just one of many beautiful, historic, gigantic mansions on Lake Como, although a slightly more famous one than some of the others. Having been used as a movie set for Star Wars Episode II (where Padme comforted Anakin after his nightmare, and where they got married), Oceans Twelve, and Casino Royale (where Bond was recuperating from his torture), many movie fans will recognize its features. Truly though – it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. It is otherworldly.
Originally built for Cardinal Angelo Maria Durini at the end of the 18th century, it passed through several hands before being purchased by famed Italian explorer Guido Monzino. Mr. Monzino then left it to a national historic trust when he passed. I have to say that despite the fact that I wasn’t feeling well (oncoming food poisoning), this was one of my favorite days of the trip. Because we’re past tourist season, there weren’t a lot of other people at the Villa; we practically had the place to ourselves. We were able to take a tour of the house itself – left as Mr. Monzino left it, including his impressive Chinese, African, and Pre-Columbian art collection as well as all of his expedition artifacts (he was the first Italian to climb Everest). The weather was absolutely gorgeous. It couldn’t have been a more perfect day. We reluctantly hopped back on the ferry to Bellagio when the Villa closed for the day. This is definitely also on my “must return” list.
Approaching Villa del BalbianelloAs you can see, it sits all by itself on the tip of a peninsulaThe ferry docks at the stairs. Until recently, boat was the only way to reach Villa del Balbianello.Walking up to the oldest part of the structureThe terrace where Padme and Anakin got marriedThe lawn where Bond engaged in a little r&r after his tortureI'll bet he has some storiesLooking out from the gardensWhat a viewOn the terrace of the main entranceThe ivy is purposely shaped like serpents. Serpents were part of the crest of the aristocratic family who owned it in the 19th century.Self portrait!Because the villa was originally built for a Cardinal, it of course contained a monastery. The monastery was later de-consecrated and houses kitchen, dining room, and smoking room.Watching over the groundsThe gardens were just stunning, everywhere you turnedBeautiful statues everywhereThe terraceSo green!
A couple of years ago, Larry and I had the chance to make a quick stop in Bellagio, on Lake Como. We were only there for a short night but fell in love and absolutely couldn’t wait to return. We got our chance this trip. We had a few extra days before our apartment in Tuscany was ready, and since it was going to be snowing in Vienna, we opted to return to Bellagio instead. It’s as beautiful as I remember, and we were treated to excellent weather. I can’t wait to go back again.
Looking over to the main part of BellagioLooking up one of Bellagio's pedestrian streetsAt the top of the streetOne of the many tiny side alleysLooking out toward Lake ComoSome pizza and pasta in the sunshineBeautiful church
