When Larry and I became engaged, I had one of the most brilliant gift ideas I’ve ever had for the guy who is impossible to buy for. Larry loves maps, especially old maps. Larry loves Slovenija. So I did a lot of research and found an antique map dealer in Germany who had a circa 1710 map of what is now Slovenija (then known as Carniola, a part of the Austro-Hungarian empire). It was so much fun torturing him with the surprise for weeks before it was ready (it had to be shipped, then I had to get it framed by a special conservation framer). Larry can’t take surprises, he’s like a 5-year-old. I endured a lot of tickle torture but still refused to reveal my hand. Finally, it arrived and one night after work I handed him a nondescript, flat, cardboard box. He immediately assumed I had gotten a framed print of the Great Salt Lake (another great love in his life) and was confused when he opened it – until he saw the inset of the skyline of Ljubljana labeled “Laybach” (the ancient name for Ljubljana). All of the churches in that skyline still exist in modern Ljubljana, so it was easily recognizable to him.

I tell you all this to explain why we ended up at this spot below. In the another inset of the map, there was a drawing of Lake Cerknica, otherwise known as The Disappearing Lake. Lake Cerknica is a natural phenomenon in which the rains and spring runoff fill it for part of the year, and for the rest of the year, it sits empty. When it is full, it is the largest lake in Slovenija. The lake is connected to a subterranean labyrinth that spews out or swallows up water, and is directly connected to the water table in the area. The ancient Romans first noticed it and before scientific study could explain this phenomenon in the 18th  century, the locals were fascinated with it. Which is how it ended up on Larry’s map. We vowed to visit The Disappearing Lake one day.

On our way out of Slovenija, as we headed for the Italian border, we took a little detour. Yep, Lake Cerknica. This is the time of the year when it is mostly empty, but you can easily see where the water line ends, and it is massive! It’s hard to believe all that water appears and disappears every year. Next time we hope to visit during a time when the lake is filled.