Salt, the Old Fashioned Way: Soline, Near Portoroz, Slovenija

Just a short drive from Piran is an area where they have been harvesting salt from the sea for hundreds of years. Called simply Soline, which literally means ‘salt fields’, they are now no longer used as much as they once were, which leaves them with a bit of a haunted, deserted air. To be clear, they do still harvest salt at Soline using the same techniques that were used in the 14th century. And the salt harvested from Soline is highly prized by many of Europe’s top chefs, including Alain Ducasse. The salt harvested is put into simple small canvas bags and sold at the Piranske Soline shops in Piran and Old Town Ljubljana. Of course I had to have some for my collection, so we will be coming home with some of that prized salt ourselves.

The three Majas were kind enough to drive out from Ljubljana to visit us, so we made the trip to Soline together. Everyone brought their cameras (except me *sob* (see post on Barcelona vermin)). We had a great time exploring and taking photos. The sun cooperated and gave us some beautiful light and a stunning sunset. I can’t wait to get some of these photos home and frame them!

Walking out to the salt fields
Walking out to the salt fields
Birds at Soline
Birds at Soline
Somehow this makes me think of the Seven Dwarves. The hills in the background are Croatia.
Somehow this makes me think of the Seven Dwarves. The hills in the background belong to Croatia.
Abandoned stone house along the salt pans
Abandoned stone house along the salt pans
The sunset gave us amazing light
The sunset gave us amazing light
This one's going up on the wall when we get home!
This one's going up on the wall when we get home!
Beautiful golden hour light on a deserted stone cottage
Beautiful golden hour light on a deserted stone cottage
Ancient canal
Ancient canal
The Three Majas, aka The Pink Ladies
The Three Majas, aka The Pink Ladies
Soline portrait
Soline portrait
And the sun goes down
And the sun goes down
Beautiful sunset
Beautiful sunset
Goodnight sun
Good night, sun

A Little Bit Italian: Piran, Slovenija

On our honeymoon, Larry and I went on a day trip to the coast – all 20 kilometers of it. Slovenija unfortunately does not have much coastline owing to the fact that Italy and Croatia took most of it for themselves. Don’t even get Slovenes started on Croatia – they’re not happy about Croatia stealing all the coastline, in addition to the fact that they’re in a battle right now over access to the open sea. At any rate, the modest coastline that Slovenija does hold along the Adriatic is picturesque and charming and . . . a little bit Italian. The town we will be spending two weeks in is Piran – first settled by the Venetians several hundred years ago and as such, the city looks more like Italy to me than it does Slovenija. Even today, you can see Trieste, the nearest major Italian port city, in the distance from the rooftops of Piran. The residents even speak with an Italian accent here – and I can tell that though I don’t speak the language!

Tartini Square at the center of Piran
Tartini Square at the center of Piran
Tartini Square is named for the famous violinist, Giuseppe Tartini
Tartini Square is named for the famous violinist, Giuseppe Tartini, who was born in Piran
Tartini Square is also the place where all the mothers bring their young children to play in the evenings
Tartini Square is also the place where all the mothers bring their young children to play in the evenings
CindyLou Who riding her pink scooter at Tartini Square
CindyLou Who riding her pink scooter at Tartini Square

On our day trip a few years ago, we spent a few hours in Piran and vowed to come back – so here we are. We’ve got a tiny apartment for the next two weeks in the middle of this tiny little ancient town. The streets are so narrow you can’t imagine anyone driving a car down them – until you see someone doing it. Yet another reason the European auto market is full of much smaller cars.

Narrow Piran streets
Narrow Piran streets
Piran streets
Piran streets
Old friends going to the square
Old friends going to the square

One secret about Slovenija is that it has amazing calamari. Larry always told me this and I had a hard time believing him until we visited and I tried for myself. Seriously – it’s amazing. It bears no resemblance whatsoever to the rubbery, over-coated stuff you get in the states. And being a seacoast town, Larry and I immediately headed to one of the waterfront restaurants where we had some for lunch. I can’t get enough of this stuff!!!

Calamari!
Calamari!

Though it is late September, the air on the coast is still warm and the water temperature is still 73 degrees. There are still plenty of people swimming!

Walking along the ancient city walls which follow the coastline
Walking along the ancient city walls which follow the coastline
The harbor at sunset
The harbor at sunset
Looking down on the peninsula from the medieval town fortifications
Looking down on the peninsula from the medieval town fortifications

Re-Visiting Favorite Spots: Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj, Slovenija

Those of you who know our prior travels to Slovenija will recognize this location: Lake Bled. It’s one of my favorite in the world because it is so surreal and beautiful. Only about 45 minutes from downtown Ljubljana, it’s an amazing lake tucked in among the Julian alps, being forever watched over on one side by Triglav, the highest Alpine peak in Slovenija, and on the other side by a castle, with an isolated church on a tiny island in the middle. Larry and I came for the first time on our honeymoon, and again a year later on our first anniversary trip. I will always need to make a stop at Bled each time I visit Slovenija.

Unfortunately the skies were overcast the day we drove up there so the Alps are obscured in the distance, but the pictures are still gorgeous.

Lake Bled, Slovenija: Island church in the foreground, castle in the background
Lake Bled, Slovenija: Island church in the foreground, castle in the background
Beautiful Alpine water
Beautiful Alpine water
Lakeside view
Lakeside view
Close-up of the island
Close-up of the island
Lake Bled, Slovenija
Lake Bled, Slovenija

After we left Bled, we went to check out Lake Bohinj, another beautiful Alpine lake just up the road. It was getting late and we were losing light but Larry took some beautiful shots, as usual.

Lake Bohinj, Slovenija
Lake Bohinj, Slovenija
Lake Bohinj
Lake Bohinj
Sunken rowboat, Lake Bohinj
Sunken rowboat, Lake Bohinj
Lake Bohinj, Slovenija

On our way back to town, we stopped in Bled again just to view the island at night. So pretty. Until next time.

Lake Bled at night
Lake Bled at night

Old Friends, New Friends, and Ping Pong: Ljubljana, Slovenija

While here in Ljubljana we’ve had a great time catching up with old friends and making new friends.

The Three Majas

Last winter, a friend of Larry’s from the church Slovenija, Maja Hegediĉ (pronounced ‘Maya’ to our American readers – the ‘j’ has a ‘y’ sound in Slovene) came to New York for a few days. I was able to meet her and we had a great dinner and evening on top of the Empire State Building with her friends, including briefly meeting her friend Maja Kaplan. We immediately caught up with Maja Hegedic and Maja Kaplan on this trip. They also introduced us to another Maja: Maja Ŝekoranja. We’ve all quickly become friends and have had so much fun together. They are now collectively referred to by us as “the Majas” or singly referred to by the first letter of their last name.

While in Ljubljana we have fallen into a routine of Wednesday night ping-pong at the church with Maja H. Larry loves ping pong almost as much as he loves me and his iPhone (which he loves in that order), and Maja Hegediĉ is also a big fan. I became the cheerleader while they played, with the other Majas sometimes joining in. (I haven’t held a ping pong racket since the 7th grade and I apparently couldn’t even be trusted to keep score properly since I kept losing track.) They have been fun nights. We even had an exciting foosball match in the church attic one night as Maja K is as fierce a player as Larry is. Maja H introduced us to a little cafe outside of Ljubljana that sits along a man-made lake where at least 50 swans have decided to live, and it serves amazing palaĉinke (crepes). The banana and Nutella crepes almost have too much Nutella! (I say almost because I’m not entirely sure you can ever have too much of the evil little choco paste.)

The ping pong master in action
The ping pong master in action
Love this action shot!
Love this action shot!
The man-made lake at the palacinke cafe. All the white dots in the distance are swans.
The man-made lake at the palaĉinke cafe. All the white dots in the distance are swans.
Enjoying yummy post-ping pong crepes with Maja H.
Enjoying yummy post-ping pong crepes with Maja H.

We also had a perfect afternoon lunch one day when the Majas were free, at a gostilna that served yummy Serbian food with a beautiful outdoor patio – sooo good! – and a trip for ice cream cones and a visit to their “beach”. The “beach” is really just a little man-made lake in the middle of Ljubljana full of turtles and swans and ducks. It’s a quiet spot surrounded on one side by condos and on all other sides by nature. Maja S and I had great fun on one of the kiddie spinning rides. I can’t stay away from spinning rides. I’ll probably never grow out of that. 🙂

The Three Majas (from L) Maja Kaplan, Maja Sekoranje, and Maja Hegedic
The Three Majas (from L) Maja Kaplan, Maja Ŝekoranje, and Maja Hegediĉ
Some of the yummy Serbian food at lunch: cevapcici
Some of the yummy Serbian food at lunch: cevapcici
These salads are the best. I could eat them every day. The cheese is from heaven!
These salads are the best. I could eat them every day. The cheese is from heaven!
Group portrait taken by our nice waiter
Group portrait taken by our nice waiter
Our Ljubljana beach
Our Ljubljana beach
Maja S enjoying the spin ride
Maja S enjoying the spin ride
Eating my hair. I should have put my hair in a clip before taking a ride.
Eating my hair. I should have put my hair in a clip before taking a ride.
Portrait at the lake, Ljubljana
Portrait at the lake, Ljubljana
Swan flying across the lake, Ljubljana
Swan flying across the lake, Ljubljana

Lunch with Aleksandar
One night right after we first arrived Ljubljana, Larry and I were having a quiet dinner at one of the restaurants that lines the Ljubljanica River, where Larry suddenly jumped up and ran over to hug someone passing by. His friend Aleksandar had been riding by on his bicycle and spotted us. They quickly exchanged numbers so that we could have a proper meal together and catch up. It’s so great to have chance encounters like that, and to see friends you may not have seen in years. Facebook helps us keep in touch virtually but nothing can replace sitting down for lunch or dinner, or just hanging out.

We subsequently had a nice long lunch with Aleksandar at a gostilna that sits along the Ljubljanica River just outside of the town center. It was one of those perfect early autumn days with sunshine, good food, and good conversation. A perfect afternoon. This was the first time I had met Aleksandar and it was a delight to get to know him a little bit. I look forward to future visits.

Time with the Majc’s

When we came to Slovenija on our honeymoon a little over 3 years ago, Larry was able to get in touch with the last family that he baptized before he left, the Majc family. It was a very special reunion. Since he taught and baptized them, they have become very active members of the small LDS community in Slovenia and have had three more children (in addition to the two they had when Larry first met them). When we returned to Ljubljana for a few days on our first anniversary, we were able to celebrate with the Majc’s as their older son, Davor, announced his mission call to Barcelona, Spain. Davor was just a young guy riding the neighborhood on his beloved bike back when Larry first knew him. How time flies! With this long visit we’ve been able to spend some quality time with the Majc family. Before we left the states, Larry dug up some old mission videotapes he had taken that included a visit to the Majc family house, and had them converted to DVD so we could share the footage with them. It was so fun to see young Davor running around and little Barbie, who was probably 18 months old at the time, saying “‘Anson!” when she spotted Larry coming up to the house (it was one of her first words). Barbie is now a senior in high school. Ivan laughed at how fast he drove and the funny shorts he was wearing on the day Larry was filming. We all laughed when little baby Barbie puked all over Larry, requiring him to change his pants while Rosanna washed them. I think the Majc’s really enjoyed seeing it and it’s so fun that Larry was able to share it with them. We also had a fun bowling date night with Ivan and Rosanna. Larry used all of his traditional high school “BH Bowlers” tricks, and still managed to beat me.

Watching Larry's old mission video with the Majc family
Watching Larry's old mission video with the Majc family
Larry's styling BH Bowler moves
Larry's styling BH Bowler moves
Letting the bowling balls fly
Letting the bowling balls fly
Ivan acknowledging his bowling genius
Ivan acknowledging his bowling genius
Rosanna taking glamour shots of Ivan
Rosanna taking glamour shots of Ivan

Time with the Lotriĉ‘s

The very first member of the church in Slovenija was a man named Albin Lotrič. Albin was baptized when he was studying as a university student in Norway. He brought the church back to his future wife, who was also baptized. These were the only two members in the entire country when Larry first came as a missionary. Back then, the only church materials in Slovene were a few hymns and the sacrament prayer, both of which were translated by Albin and printed from his home printer. Things have changed a bit in Slovenija now, as they finally have a version of the Book of Mormon in Slovene and have full facilities and materials in their native language. (When Larry was on his mission he had to try to convince people to read the Book of Mormon in Croatian).

We had planned to go on a hike with the Lotrič’s near where they live up by the Austrian border, but unfortunately the weather would not cooperate the week we were to go. Instead we were able to have dinner one Sunday afternoon and go on a mini hike on a mountain ridge near their home. Their son Benjamin brought his remote control airplane and we had a great time with the view (though the air was hazy) and looking at a nearby church. Albin told us a story of a car accident he was in at 18 years of age where a friend of his lost control on a bend and they rolled 200-250 vertical feet down the mountain where we were hiking. None of them were wearing seatbelts. Albin’s friends were thrown clear from the car at various points on the mountain but Albin was not, and stayed in the car until it finally came to rest against a tree. Albin eventually woke up and walked to a neighboring house for help. One of his friends, who was thrown from the car not far from the road, had also awoken and gone to another neighboring house for help. The third friend remained unconscious until the emergency personnel arrived to find him. All of them survived with minor injuries. Miraculous.

The hill that Albin rolled down
The hill that Albin rolled down
The isolated mountaintop church
The isolated mountaintop church
Walking along the path
Walking along the path
Portrait at the church
Portrait at the church
The Lotric's son Benjamin flying his plane
The Lotric's son Benjamin flying his plane
A budding photographer
A budding photographer
Group portrait!
Group portrait!

Time with Sara, Aleš, Vanessa, and Rebecca in Maribor

Larry has a good friend Sara who lives in Maribor, one of Slovenija’s other major cities, in the northeast part of Slovenija not far from the Austrian border. We were able to spend an afternoon with Sara when we were here in 2006. So one recent Saturday morning we headed north to Maribor to spend the day with Sara and her family. We only met her husband Aleš for about 5 minutes last time because he was working, and their youngest daughter, Rebecca, wasn’t born yet. We had a nice, long visit this time and had such a wonderful time. The girls were adorable and though shy at first, quickly became best buddies with Larry (Vanessa especially took a liking to him). We even managed to befriend their cat. We spent part of the time in their home eating, and eating, and eating, and part of the afternoon in the town of Maribor. While in Maribor we were also able to meet up with another woman Larry taught on his mission, Sonja, and her husband and little boy. Sara fed us far too much food and we stayed late into the evening and then left reluctantly for our drive back to Ljubljana (after being scolded by Sara for not planning to spend more time with them). Sara, we promise we will stop for longer next time!

Sara and Vanessa in foreground, Ales and Rebecca in background
Sara and Vanessa in foreground, Aleš and Rebecca in background
Maribor boasts the oldest grape vine in the world - over 400 years old and still producing grapes
Maribor boasts the oldest grape vine in the world - over 400 years old and still producing grapes
Rebecca the grape goddess
Rebecca the grape goddess
One of the main squares in Maribor
One of the main squares in Maribor
We climbed the church tower to look over the city
We climbed the church tower to look over the city
Looking down over Maribor
Looking down over Maribor
Vanessa is a natural poser!
Vanessa is a natural poser!
Vanessa, Rebecca and Sonja's son riding a statue
Vanessa, Rebecca and Sonja's son riding a statue
Walking along the streets with Sara and family and Sonja and family
Walking along the streets with Sara and family and Sonja and family
Sara, Ales, Rebecca, and Vanessa
Sara, Aleš, Rebecca, and Vanessa
Cute little kitty!
Cute little kitty!
Group portrait!
Group portrait!

Country Fair, Famous Church, and Waterfall Hike in a Peculiar Place: Ljubljana, Slovenija

Larry and I went out for a drive one afternoon to see a country church built by a famous Slovene architect, Joże Pleĉnik. It is one of the most unique churches I have seen. Set in the middle of farmlands, literally on marshes, it is called St. Michael in the Marshes. Because of the ground conditions, Pleĉnik built the church on approximately 350 eight meter piles. It’s a simple but beautiful building. We happened to show up at the church on the day they were holding a town festival, celebrating their farming heritage with demonstrations of period techniques, farm animals, and plenty of local pivo (beer), of course. What great fun!

Front of the church of St. Michael of the Marshes. You can't see it well but the columns line a floating staircase that goes to the front door of the building. Super cool effect.
Front of the church of St. Michael of the Marshes. You can't see it well but the columns line a floating staircase that goes to the front door of the building. Super cool effect.
Native costumes at the festival
Native costumes at the festival
Back of the church where the town festival was taking place
Back of the church where the town festival was taking place
Traditional farming technique demonstration
Traditional farming technique demonstration
I'm ready for my close-up, Mr. DeMille
I'm ready for my close-up, Mr. DeMille

After visiting the church we took off down the road to explore some of the smaller towns in the area. It was a Saturday afternoon and we didn’t have anywhere to be so we took our time. After wandering for a while Larry noticed that one of the directional signs pointing to nearby towns was named something unique. I’ll let the video do the explaining:

Yep. Hell. Apparently it’s a ridge where there are several beautiful waterfalls and because the ridge was so impassable back in the day, the people named it “Hell”. We were getting late in the day and running out of light, and I was in flip-flops, but we decided to hike up to the first couple of falls which were easily accessible, and see what they were about. Unfortunately not a lot of water is running through them this time of year, but they were still pretty. And now we can say that we’ve been to Hell and back.

Bound by the chains of Hell
Bound by the chains of Hell
Not a lot of water running. Though you would expect it to be a bit dry in Hell.
Not a lot of water running. Though you would expect it to be a bit dry.
Crossing through Hell
Crossing through Hell
Waterfall in Hell.
Waterfall in Hell

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