People, Places, and Things

This adventure is a really interesting and educational experiment. It’s not so much of an education that I’m bored and wishing the teacher would move quicker through the material, like back in the day. But it’s a steady and ambling education as I observe and absorb the people, places, and things of our first stop. France. If not the first, at least one of the early lessons that occurred to me recently, while Lisa and I were sitting in a park enjoying a late breakfast of yogurt and pain au chocolat, was that while the country had changed, very nearly everything seems to be the same. Well, I shouldn’t say the same, but patterns so similar you would have a hard time telling them apart from a distance. That is, that while we have changed so much, the place, the people, and the things around us here in Paris are very much the same as living in New York.

Being on many rushed and event/landmark/eatery/attraction-filled trips over my lifetime, I have never had the luxury of time to absorb the similarities.

People

I’ve passed the grumbling Parisian woman as we squeezed by each other on the too-narrow sidewalk, I’ve heard the disapproving grunt of a well-dressed but surly looking man in the Epicerie when I was standing a little too far back in the aisle looking at the wonderful goods. I’ve seen the bus driver watch with cold detachment as a dejected runner failed to get to the stop before he unnecessarily rushed the bus away. I’ve seen the bad French you hear about.

I’ve also seen a crowd of teenage girls on a crowded bus watch vigilantly for an elderly woman to whom they could offer their seat, and, one by one all end up standing long before their stop had come. I’ve seen two shop keepers who didn’t speak a word of English gesture and sign their way through directions to a competitor down the road that might have my size. I’ve seen a girl in a copy shop who refused to charge us for the few critical copies of documents that we needed made. I’ve seen the most respectful and cordial communication and affection shown between otherwise strangers all over this city. I’ve seen incredible patience shown to loud tourists with poor manners that I certainly wouldn’t have tolerated in their place. I’ve seen a wide and rich swath of humanity and every role has a counterpart in the every major U.S. city. To be honest though, people are significantly more thoughtless and abrupt in New York than they are here. Perhaps I shouldn’t compare those, as the difficulties of living in New York invariably turn people cold and hard over time. Perhaps some of that occurs here too. A couple of months won’t show me that. But let me end this section with a story from early in the trip.

On our second day in Paris, we found the nearest grocery store with the combination of decent size and reasonable price (as opposed to the very gourmet Grand Epicere which is the former and not the latter) and loaded ourselves up with the staples and treats necessary for setting up house in our little rented apartment. Behind us in the check-out line was a gentleman who watched with some amusement and surprising patience as our massive load of consumables rode down the conveyor toward an every growing tally of little green digits. When l’addition was complete, I reached out to swipe my credit card in the most logical of the card reader’s two slots, but was stopped by the man behind us in line. He said in broken English, “you must use this one, here,” pointing to the other slot. I smiled and managed a poorly pronounced “merci” and slid my card through the one he indicated. It didn’t scan. I tried again. No luck. As I went for a third, the girl working the register said something to the man. He looked at me sheepishly and pointed to the other slot, the original one that had seemed right to me the first time. We laughed as I scanned the card and completely the transaction. He said “Sorry.” I said, “no problem at all, thank you for trying to help.” He smiled and said “I was so proud to know, and then I was wrong.” We laughed and patted each other on the shoulder before parting. Good guy. Just trying to help. He could have been annoyed with us seeing his milk, bread, and cheese, against our week’s worth of groceries (the kind of bulk they simply don’t buy as a quick trip to the store is a daily stop). He could have watched the “silly American” suffer as he thought I was scanning my card the wrong way, and chuckled at the confusion. But instead he reached out to me. Even though he wasn’t right about the scanner, he was right as a person trying to be helpful and I appreciated it regardless of outcome.

Places

Paris has the Eiffel Tower, New York has the Statue of Liberty. Paris has the Seine, New York has the Hudson and New York Harbor. Paris has Notre Dame de Paris, New York has St. Patricks’s and St. John The Divine. Paris has the Louvre and Orsay, New York has The Met and Natural History.

As much as there are such significant cultural and historic differences between them, living in a foreign place, rather than just staying for a week or so in a hotel, lends itself to contemplation and then realization of the commonalities between large historic cities of the world. All of them have tourist attractions and churches, gardens and parks. All of them have stores, restaurants, libraries, charming streets and dirty streets. Each has good neighborhoods and bad, strengths and weaknesses — and all of them have compressed humanity filling every door and window, nearly every crack in the jungle of stone, glass, and concrete.

Roaming around Paris on various aimless explorations we’ve made, as well as on the many errands we have run, we find life here surprisingly ordinary and similar to ours in NYC. The difference, and perhaps the whole worth of the experience and reason to continue this adventure indefinitely, is in the details.

Things

The brands of automobiles and motorcycles, many the same, many different. The brands of food and consumer goods, many the same and so many different. Each and every little difference has been the focus of our attention. We have been seeking out the subtleties in our food selection (rule #1 is to never buy the same thing twice), in our approach to landmarks and attractions (to take the time to see them from a non-tourist angle, from a slower more in-depth perspective) and our wandering, to let ourselves get lost and found over and over. We’ve happened upon some of the most beautiful little streets, shops, views, and corners while exploring.

While the bulk of life in another country, on another continent, is surprisingly very much the same, the details are interestingly very different. And I’m finding that that’s where the beauty and value of travel lies — especially in this long-term travel which Lisa and I are both enjoying so much. Over a lifetime with my creative pursuits (songwriting, poetry, short stories, photography, etc.), and professional career, I’ve spend a great deal of time studying the details of things both objectively and subjectively, to write about them, understand them, and find a fresh perspective on them from which to create something new, or at least a work of my perspective on it. As you can imagine, like a kid in a candy store, this is my kind of trip.

© 2009 Larry L. Hanson

Orsay and The Moon

We spent the morning working on our various projects, but by mid-afternoon we were itching to get out of the apartment. Being an overcast day with gray, useless light, the next thing we thought of was a museum. As we hadn’t been to Orsay yet this trip we grabbed our cameras and headed out.

For something so seemingly relaxing and non-active, museums take a lot out of you. After three hours of ambling through a place we’re usually ready to sit, or sometimes fall, down. We also find that in most museums, fortunately, those three hours are plenty to see the “important” or otherwise notable or attractive pieces — obvious exceptions being the bigger museums in NYC, D.C., and here in Paris. Orsay is a former train station, as Lisa mentioned in another post I believe, and a feature of that past is a cavernous main hall that is quite a sight to behold. Most of the museum’s sculptures stand in the main hall, giant figures among the many ant-like figures roaming around them in the clothing of either brightly under-dressed tourists or desperately fashionable Parisians.

As you can see by the picture of the grand hall below, the museum was sparsely attended while we were there. We were glad to be able to take our time and stop in front of our favorites, rather than wrestling with the mob from place to place.

We began with the temporary exhibitions, as they weren’t there last time we were here and may not be next time we come. One was an event marking the centenary of the death of painter Ernest Hébert (1817-1908) which consisted of his and his contemporaries’ paintings of Italian peasants. While portraiture is not my favorite type, his depictions were very impressive. One of my favorites was a little peasant girl. Cute as cute gets.

After that exhibit and some of the surrounding content, we decided to get a late lunch at the Cafe on the top floor. As we ate, we considered possible plans of attack. As we have enough time to return at least once or twice before we leave for the south, we decided to take our time on the top floor (impressionists and others) like we haven’t been able to do before, on shorter, more concentrated trips.

Orsay houses a few of my favorites by Van Gogh and others, and most of them are on the top floor. We took the next 3 hours to make our way through them. It was wonderful. I highly recommend it, as it necessarily comes with the highly recommended slow travel method we are experimenting with as well.

As always, though, after four and a half hours in the museum, we were ready to call it a night. We may have to rush the other floors on our next visit as we have many other museums to visit during our last weeks in Paris.

When we got home and settled in I looked out the window to see the crescent moon setting in a path toward the Eiffel Tower. I grabbed my camera and tripod and set up on the balcony to capture some nice long exposures for the collection. See below (click to enlarge).

Photographs and text © 2009 Larry L. Hanson

The Delicious and Annoying Pain of Paris

The French variety of pain, that is. Le Pain. Bread. Larry and I are quite enjoying it. If you are planning a trip to France at any time in the near future, just memorize this phrase: “Je voudrais plus de pain, s’il vous plait.” Trust me, you’ll be glad to have that bit of survival French under your hat. Everyone in France has a routine of going to the local boulangerie or epicerie to buy their daily baguette. It’s just what they do. Every day, without fail. First thing in the morning or in the evening on their way home from work. And while we Americans may wonder aloud at the daily pain that may be (pun intended), let me argue the other side of it. As Larry put up on his facebook page the other day “Fresh bread every day is what America’s missing.” We are quite enjoying buying our baguettes and other daily carbohydrate laden delights (pain au chocolate is my personal favorite, of course). This morning Larry even trudged down to the local boulangerie at 7 am for warm baguettes fresh out of the oven. I could get used to this.

Larry suffering from a carbohydrate and yeast induced high
Larry suffering from a carbohydrate and yeast induced high (I don't know that suffering is the word -Larry)

If The Shoe Doesn’t Fit, Get Smaller Feet

We have also discovered the pain of shoe shopping in Paris for an American male with size 13 feet. When Larry decided to leave his old Cole Haan loafers back in the states because they were ready for that big shoe rack in the sky (they weren’t in such great shape to begin with, and then they had to survive his abuse during our entire miserable move), we thought, no problem, we’ll just buy some in Europe. Except we forgot the fact that the average French man is 5’8″ with a corresponding shoe size. We’ve spent a lot of our time over the last few days trying to find a shoe store that sold shoes that would fit Larry’s big paws. We haven’t been so successful. Every grand magasin (large department store), a Mephisto store down the street (“Mephisto ne fait pas” – “Mephisto doesn’t make them”, asserted the sales lady there), and many other shoe stores in between have all said, “45 is the largest we carry.” Size 13 US is roughly equal to a 47 -48 in Europe.

We were so close to success on Monday we very nearly thought our problem solved. Friendly sales people at one shoe store directed us to another around the corner to a store that carries grande pointures (large sizes). Sure enough, up on the sign it advertised “36 á 50” – Larry’s size with room to grow! While the selection was not large he found a couple of lukewarm possibilities, and the friendly older French woman who has probably worked there her entire life ran upstairs to retrieve our hoped for solution. Larry had requested a 48 and when she brought the two different pairs he requested, one was clearly too small and the other was “parfait” according to the sales woman. She again went upstairs to retrieve a larger size in the too small pair. However, Larry liked the first pair best but thought they were too large.

Here is where a broader French vocabulary would have been helpful. I studied it in college and in business school and was fairly conversant at one point but my days of being a lazy American and expressing myself only in English have pushed most of my French language skills into that cloudy part of my brain that I can no longer access. Professor Federico would be so disappointed in me. Thus we are left with my vocabulary of a few hundred survival words, which works just fine in grocery stores and when ordering meals and buying movie tickets, but is apparently not enough to express myself in the intricacies of shoe fit and sizing.

I asked Madame if we could try the 47’s in the shoe Larry had on and Madame informed me that “a 47 would not work, the 48 was a perfect fit”. It was not a question, or a matter of opinion, it was merely the fact. I tried again. Again, she corrected me, and told me that the sock was the problem. Larry was not wearing regular socks and just had the chausettes that the stores keep on hand for customers to use when trying on. With a regular sock, she said, it would be a perfect fit. Except Larry didn’t plan on wearing them with socks given we’re on the verge of summer and that Larry only wears socks to work and church in the summer. “But he won’t wear them with socks” I tried to explain. “It’s required that he wear socks, it’s store policy.” she informed me.

Obviously my flawed French was failing me. Madame was “the expert” at shoe size and fit and she was resolved. “The 47 will not work. The 48 is the correct fit. It is not a question.” She broke off in rapid fire French – something about the arch of his feet and the width – I have no idea what she said but can assume it had something to do with the fact that his feet were too wide and his arch too high for a 47 to work. I think she also said something about him stretching the 47’s if he tried them on because his feet were obviously too big for them. Then she put all the shoes back in their boxes and put them in the back of the store, saying (I think) something about if we didn’t like them, it was not a big deal “ce n’est pas grave“. We both sat there a little shell shocked. Apparently in Paris, the customer is not always right. At least we got to admire the beautiful Paris Opera Garnier while we were in the neighborhood.

Opera Garnier
Opera Garnier
Opera Garnier
Opera Garnier
Opera Garnier
Opera Garnier
Opera Garnier
Opera Garnier

Now I have done serious internet research to find places that sell les grande pointures and we have a few well-stocked stores in the Bastille neighborhood to try. Of course the brands they carry are all American labels, because apparently only American men have big feet. This time we’ll ask for a 47 first. Hopefully we get a sales person that speaks a little English.

Heat Wave

Saturday, Sunday, and Monday turned out to be quite the Parisian heatwave. For those of you who paid attention in the past when there have been screaming headlines about deadly heat waves in Europe, any time the mercury in the thermometer goes above 90 degrees, it’s a deadly heatwave by European standards. Continental Europe generally doesn’t get that hot in the summertime, and for that reason, many, if not most people, do not have air conditioning. Including our landlords. I think it was only in the mid-80’s but it was quite humid and that, combined with our 6th floor location, made for a pretty steamy apartment. Larry does get credit for being the ingenious inventor that he is, as he crafted our very own air conditioner by freezing water in old 1.5L Coke bottles and placing them in front of the fan. The result was a very pleasant, very cool breeze aimed directly wherever we chose.

We did our best to spend as little time as possible here (though we couldn’t escape it too much given the subways or buses didn’t have air conditioning either) and decided one night that it was the perfect time to take the Bateaux Mouches – the pleasant open-air tour boats that march up and down the Seine day and night. We decided to take the metro to Place de la Concorde and take pictures as we walked the rest of the way along the river to the Bateaux Mouches dock.

Sunset looking down from Place de la Concorde
Sunset looking down from Place de la Concorde
Obelisk at the Place de la Concorde
Obelisk at the Place de la Concorde
Fountain, Place de la Concorde
Fountain, Place de la Concorde
Lisa trying to get that perfect fountain shot
Lisa trying to get a perfect fountain shot
Pont Alexandre III and the Eiffel Tower
Pont Alexandre III and the Eiffel Tower
Sun goes down on the Seine
Sun goes down on the Seine
Sunset looking down from Place de la Concorde

We ended up taking a 10 pm boat so it was nearly dark when we started. The full tour takes a little over an hour and goes past all the beautiful spots of the city, including Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and the Musee D’Orsay (my personal favorite, both for the spectacularly gorgeous building (which actually used to be a train station) as well as its contents).

On the Bateaux Mouches
On the Bateaux Mouches
L'Assemblee Nationale
Assemblee Nationale
My favorite, the Musee D'Orsay
My favorite, the Musee D'Orsay
La Louvre, passing tour boat
La Louvre, passing tour boat

We walked home in the dark, across the Pont Alexandre III, by far the most beautiful bridge in Paris, and past the Invalides, enjoying the beautiful stillness of the sleeping buildings and trying to inhale every detail so that it’s permanently imprinted on our DNA.

Pont Alexandre III, Eiffel Tower in the background
Pont Alexandre III, Eiffel Tower in the background
Pont Alexandre III, Invalides
Pont Alexandre III, Invalides
Looking across the Pont Alexandre III to the Invalides
Looking across the Pont Alexandre III to the Invalides
Entrance to the Pont Alexandre III, Lisa as a tiny speck
Entrance to the Pont Alexandre III, Lisa as a tiny speck
Guardians of the Pont
Guardians of the Pont
Relaxing along the Pont
Relaxing along the Pont
Inquisitive guardian
Inquisitive guardian
Peek-a-boo
Peek-a-boo
Hanging around, forever
Hanging around, forever
Walking home from the cruise near midnight
Walking home from the cruise near midnight
Nighttime brilliance
Nighttime brilliance

We’ve just realized that we’ve been here nearly 2 weeks already. Nearly halfway done with the Paris portion. I knew when we got here that a month was not going to be enough time, and of course, it isn’t. Larry, asked me the other day about the dream I’ve always had of living in Paris, “One month isn’t going to count, is it?” I informed him, no, of course not. It’s just a long-ish vacation. For it to count to me we would have to be here at least a year. Of course my preference is to have a second home here that we can come to whenever we want, but that’s some time down the road. I’d settle for a houseboat on the Seine, too.

Houseboat inhabitant enjoying his dinner and some fresh air
Le Cid enjoying his dinner and some fresh air

I’ll have to re-learn French if I’m ever going to be allowed to own property here.

Cloudy night, sitting on the balcony
Cloudy night, sitting on the balcony

Text © 2009 Lisa Hanson
Photographs © 2009 Larry L. Hanson, with Lisa Hanson

Lisa Playing a Prank

Lisa picked up one of the tiny cars parked near our apartment and carried it around the corner to play a prank on the driver. I’m sure he was confused.

Rue du Bac Home, in Paris

Produce at the Grande Epicerie
Produce at the Grande Epicerie

Larry likes to make lots of little word plays and jokes for places and names – the title of this post is his latest. As we approached our place at the end of a long day he said “Well, it’s good to be Rue du Bac home.” Our apartment is on the Rue du Bac, in the 7th Arrondissement, on the Left Bank. I couldn’t have asked for a better location. We are no more than 15 minutes’ walk from the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Orsay, and Notre Dame. We are less than two blocks down the street from the most famous gourmet grocery store in Paris, La Grande Epicerie de Paris. Those of you who know me well know that I have what borders on a fetish for gourmet markets. I could spend hours perusing all of the gorgeous produce, meats, fish and exotic ingredients in each aisle.

The apartment is pretty much as I expected based on the pictures and floorplan we received from the owners. It’s a decent sized one bedroom + office, with a tiny little Parisian kitchen and a balcony that looks over to the Invalides and Le Tour Eiffel. The view is really great. We’re on the 6th floor, and our view is unobstructed to the West. We were both thrilled as soon as we got up here and opened the blinds.

View from Rue du Bac
View from Rue du Bac

We spent the first afternoon unpacking and settling in, then went out for one of my favorite meals in France, an omelette. Eggs are just better here – whether in quiche, an omelette, or on top of a croque madame. Probably because everything is made with a gallon of cream and/or butter. My cholesterol levels may need some emergency intervention when we go back to the States. We walked around the entire large block around our apartment on the way back to get a feel for the neighborhood, and found a Tabac and a convenience store where we severely overpaid for some Coke Zero. I think we’re going to have to cut back on our habit if we’re going to live economically over here.

The next day we got lost in the Grande Epicerie (at least for as long as Larry had the patience) and then went down the street to a regular grocery store to stock up on some regular items. Food is a lot more expensive in France. You’ve gotta love the T.V.A. (taxe sur la valeur ajoutee) or for those who know it by its English name, the VAT (value added tax). Invented by a Frenchman in 1954, it is a consumption tax that was originally directed at large business but really everyone pays the price (cap and trade, anyone?). VAT is currently 19.6% in France.

View from Rue du Bac at night
View from Rue du Bac at night

Our goal as it relates to grocery shopping is that we will never buy the same thing twice (except the basics like milk and bread), thus forcing us to try lots of new and different things. We also have a goal of buying two new types of cheeses each time we visit the market so we can spread out our cheese tastings among the more than 1,000 types of cheese currently being produced in France.

On Sunday we walked over to the Eiffel Tower. It was a beautiful sunny, cool afternoon and there were a lot of Parisians and tourists alike enjoying it.

Eiffel Tower on a Sunday afternoon
Eiffel Tower on a Sunday afternoon
Relaxing Sunday
Relaxing Sunday
Children playing on the Champs de Mars
Children playing on the Champs de Mars

On Monday we ventured over to the Louvre for our first of hopefully many visits while we are here. We spent about 2 1/2 hours covering the Denon wing, which included the Mona Lisa, Galerie de Michel-Ange (Michaelangelo), the Victoire de Samothrace and Cupid and Psyche, which is one of my personal favorites.

Entrance to the Louvre
Entrance to the Louvre
Posing with the famous lady
Posing with the famous lady
Victory des Semothraces
Victoire de Samothrace
Cupid and Psyche
Cupid and Psyche

I love beautiful paintings but there’s something about the luminous, life-like, peaceful stillness of marble sculptures that entrances me. Standing near them feels like I’m standing next to a person who will spring into animation at any moment.

Rodin is one of my favorite sculptors – and lucky me – the Rodin museum is just down the road! We’ll definitely be spending some time there as well.

After we left the Louvre we wandered through the Tuileries, past the Place de la Concorde and down the Champs Elysees.

Relaxing at the Tuileries
Relaxing at the Tuileries

We finished the evening off by seeing Angels and Demons in a movie theater on the Champs-Elysees and eating omelettes – again. Larry spent quite a bit of time in the middle of the Champs Elysees trying to capture the perfect blend of moving traffic with the Arc de Triomphe at the center.

Arc de Triomphe at night
Arc de Triomphe at night

Tuesday we explored more of the left bank as we searched to do a little window shopping and ended up at the chapel of Saint Germain des Pres which is one of the oldest churches in Paris. The bell tower was built beginning in 990. The tomb of Rene Descartes (“I think, therefore I am”) is there, among others.

Chapel of Saint Germain
Chapel of Saint Germain
Chapel of Saint Germain
Chapel of Saint Germain

After the church we stopped to eat in one of the famous left bank brasseries, the Cafe de Flore. We had the BEST quiche Lorraine ever (more eggs!) while sitting in the sun terrace and watching passers-by. Larry spotted who he thinks was Faye Dunaway leaving the cafe surrounded by a handsome male companion and a personal assistant. Unfortunately I only saw the back of her head.

Cafe de Flore
Cafe de Flore

(All photos (c) Larry L. Hanson or Lisa Hanson, 2009)

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